Okay, I can’t figure out how to do a general post so I am repying to you.
This is basically the stuff you will need. There are no special sizes to anything here, use whatever it takes for your particular drill press. I. using the $60.00 dollar job from harbour freight.
You are only removing about .030", and will shorten the sear contact surface.
When finished, this thing should look something like this.
1: Base. It needs to be very flat and parallel and whatever size it needs to be to clamp to your particular drill press table.
2: Slider. It needs to be very flat and parallel, and needs sit a shade higher than the side rails so the clamps will press down on it when snugged.
3: Rails. The surfaces that contact the bass and slider need to be flat and square(no bow) so that the slider will slide staight and even.
Attach the first rail like so. I forgot to mention that clearance hole in rails for the screws need to be drilled first.
Now with the slider between, apply gentle pressure and attach the other rail. The slider should slide straight with no sideways wiggle.
Now screw in the clamps but just barely snug them so the slider slides, but does’t lift up.
Clamp the assembly to your drill press table so the center of the drill press spindle is as close to center of the slider as possible. From here on out, you can’t remove the assembly or move the drill press table, so make sure you have enough verticle spindle movement to finish the job.
Now chuck your 3/8" stone in and use a good square to check for squareness of the stone and the slider with the clamps gently snugged. This is the tricky part. If you don’t have a table angle adjustment feature on you drill press, you’ll have to shim under the base on one end or the other to square the slider to the stone.
I used this type of razor blade because most folks don’t have a precision square. These blades are surprisingly square at the edges indicated with sq
Now sink a .120" hole 1/8" from the edge of the slider. Lightly snug the clamps down first. Don’t go all the way through the slider. a half inch is good. You are going to press a .125" dowell in the hole and you don’t want it to go into base and prevent the slider from sliding. I used a .120 drill because the dowell needs to be a fairly tight fit.
Grind or stone a slight taper on the end of the .125" dowell that is going into the slider, chuck the other end into drill chuck and gently press the pin into the slider. Don’t try to raise the spindle until you loosen the chuck or you will make a mess.
Now put your hammer on the dowell and position it the area to be ground is aimed an the center of the stone. With a piece of notebook paper against the stone, gently slide the slider and hammer up to the stone so thet there is a slight drag on the paper and then lightly snug the clamps. Place whatever round thing you chose(I used one of those lowes drill depth rings) but anything round with a hole in the center will do. Screw the round thing in while gently holding against the rear of the slider.
Now you are ready to grind.
rotate the hammer away from the stone and remove it from the dowell. Use your calipers to get a starting measurement. From the edge of the hole to the surface to be ground will be .187" to .188". Sorry about the crappy pic. Subtract .030" from .187" and you have .157". This is where mine ended up. You can take more or less, it’s up to you. I have only a few thousanths creep and I was fine with that. I figured any less than that and the sear would be too close to the edge creating a dangerous condition. I slapped mine around a few times and there was no problem.
Anyway, put the hammer back on the dowell and fire up the spindle to as close to 1000rpm as you can get.
Rotate the hammer at a slow but steady rate(make sure every time you advance the hammer that the clamps are snugged down.
After rotating back and forth until you hear no more grinding, release clamps and add use the next size feeler gage(I forget to mention those too. You will need their thicknesses to increase by only .001" at a time.). Remove the hammer frequntly to check the hole to edge distance and it will allow the hammer to cool a little. When the distance gets to about .163" or so, lower the stone so that rest of the cuts will be on a fresh, straight section of the stone.
For those of you who, like Kona and Trigger happy disassemble their subs while they sleep, a good Idea would be to keep testing the amount of creep by installing and grinding and installing again until happiness is achieved.
When the job is done I recommend Trigger happy’s polish job.
Okay, I’m going to hit the reply button now. Hope it works!