M*CARBO Brotherhood

Trigger Bar Thoughts?

So, I’ve got my Sub 2k, with MCARBO buffer, tube cover, muzzle brake, and recoil charging handle installed. I’ve also got the feed ramp (though don’t have a dremel so didn’t get polishing kit) and pro trigger kit.

I have no experience opening up and modding rifles so I’m a bit intimidated, though watching much of the install video I feel I’ll be fine. I’m not in a hurry to do so multiple times, and the trigger bar is somewhere on the horizon.

There’s no firm ETA on that right? Saw it was originally aimed for a little back alongside the Muzzle brake but clearly that’s changed. I’ve seen the range report and can tell it definitely reduces trigger slack, but I’m hardly so experienced that I feel that’s gonna be a huge thing for me.

I’ll be hitting the range this Saturday, so my dilemma is–open it up and install what I’ve got, or wait for the trigger bar. I don’t know that I need it right away, and could wait til the flip up mount comes out and grab both (and a sling mount). I’ve got a 45 degree offset that should work for now.

Any suggestions?

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I think the conventional wisdom is wait for the trigger bar. Open it once, do all the internals, close it up. That’s what I’m doing. Got all the parts except trigger bar. You can get a cheap Harbor Freight tool for like six bucks. My understanding is, mainly from the install videos and hangin’ around here, polishing the feed ramp is a good thing to do so I did. :+1:

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@TheThreeLaws,

Trigger Bar should be released on the 12th - that is later this week. The Optics Mount as last seen was mounted to the forend so, IMO, no reason to hold your installs until we have an Optics Mount. Avoiding opening up the receiver twice and one week apart makes sense to me - I’m waiting on the trigger bar to install the feed ramp I found in my mailbox today.

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I recommend you wait until you get the trigger bar so you only have to do a complete tear-down only once. A complete tear-down can seem intimidating but you can do it. Watch each of the excellent installation videos from start to finish one time. Then watch each one of them again as you’re actually doing the upgrade and follow along as Chris performs each step. You can pause the video or rewind it as needed to ensure you do each step correctly before proceeding to the next step. It took me several days to work up the courage to do all of the internal upgrades to my S2K but once I did I found it to be actually kind of fun. Just be sure to allow yourself a couple of uninterrupted hours for the complete job.

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Thank you for the encouraging words, you guys all fill my head with BIG IDEAS like “I am an ace minibike mechanic, so I can do this and become a true Gunsmith…!” Add your best cartoon voiceover and fanfare music to create the MCARBO version of Kung Fu Panda: black belt in a day, because you believe in it so much…:rofl:but the whole enchanted fantasy gets shot to shit by the thought of a minute spring flicking off into oblivion, or taking it out to shoot and it goes click not bang…No my brothers, as much as I want the accomplishment, for sixty bucks, I’m having it done did at the gun shop I bought it from.

(I am actually an ace minibike mechanic though)

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I really don’t understand the big fear behind taking apart the sub 2000. I enjoy it actually. It’s got like 15 parts total not counting screws and whatnot. It’s the perfect entry level tinkering gun to get into. 2 cents that’s all.

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It’s not the fear of taking it apart, you just don’t want to be me when that spring goes flying into eternity…:exploding_head:

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They make extras haha! Can’t hit dingers if you don’t swing the bat!

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I would definitely recommend getting the trigger bar as long as you’re opening it up to do the other mods. I’d suggest watching the individual videos that pertain to each part you are going to install and then watch the all in one install vid once and then use it to follow along while you do the parts swap.

Pay close attention to the cross bolt safety and the location of the spring “legs” against the post/pins in the receiver/grip when reassembling, as I recall when dropping the top half down on to the assembly leading with the magazine catch/front side a little was helpful. Also, I have some dental pick type tools that were useful in finessing the springs into place. The two that rest against the same grip pin below the hammer and sear are a bit tricky as they barely stay put until you get the other side place and that is a time when tiny parts can go BOING! I went ahead and ordered basically all those little parts (safety spring, pin, c clips, mag catch spring etc…) form Kel Tec just to have back ups - they didn’t cost much at all. You don’t have to spend much on a Dremel and once you have one you will likely find other uses for it in the future. Good luck and have fun with it, I am sure you will appreciate the improvements and it can be a very gratifying sense of accomplishment.

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Good gunsmiths and good mechanics will (change out / repair) one part of a system at a time and test between each installation. They do this so they can access improvement or lack there of. I under stand the reasons for doing it all at the same time and most often this will work out fine. If you are installing a feed ramp and a red dot sight at the same time and the gun looses accuracy, you know to look at the sight, if it stops feeding you to look at the feed ramp. If you change out more than one part in the fire control system at a time how do you know what made things better and if there is a problem where do you start to correcting it? Boomchucker sending you gun out to have your parts installed is a good idea if it saves you stress. I would bet you can do this work for yourself if you want. R S

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Having the Knowledge you Have already! It will be a Piece of Cake’ As far as to find the Flying Widget’s If a Survey was done and Everyone was Honest we have all chased the little SOB spring or plug around the gun room (Once) in Our Duplicate tear downs.:sunglasses:

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Wright on DivaMarie I know I have spent more time on my hands and knees with a flashlight looking for parts than anyone would believe. R S

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You don’t want to know how many Ck Balls for Weber Carb’s I’ve searched for in my years as a Porsche Mechanic,Years before the Magnetic parts trays were Available !:rofl:

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Wait for the trigger bar. I have a prototype one installed and it’s a great upgrade. :+1:

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For me it’s the glue. The need to break loctite on the collar and reapply it after. Plus the upgraded rear sights - it’s just right now, deploying with unfolding my S2K - but will it be so after next reassembly?

If not for loctite in these two places - I would not mind taking it apart.

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Sir: I repeat myself Again on this Simple Task,A Known good Flat punch to drive it off’ in four different spots on the lower edge of Castle nut, Forget the heat gun, When removed clean threads with Solvent/ Alcohol and Use a small pick to clean the Threads and wipe the Grips and use the loctite Provided on Assembly. Piece of Cake’

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