M*CARBO Brotherhood

To CW or not to CW...That is my question

Hi everyone, I’ll keep this short.
I really don’t care for either my front or rear sight to co witness with my RDS. Honestly seams like 80% visual obstruction of the target through the optic in that configuration…
Having said that I decided to mount my RDS on a riser. It just clears the OEM fixed front and rear sights. I may try again without the riser, and modifying the rear peep to fold down.
I would prefer it mount lower without the riser, folds up about 3/4" smaller…
But again having on the riser I don’t have to have my face against the charging tube.
Lots of pros and cons going on here…lol

What are different forume members thoughts on some of the pros and cons they have experienced in mounting with or without the riser, or with or with out the Co Witnessing, view obstruction, etc?

Thank you,
-Lou

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@louie088 I’m not particularly a fan of co-witnessing irons to a dot. It clutters the view and if you are using irons to find the dot it kind of defeats the purpose. Frank Proctor is a well respected shooter and he demos shooting a dot turned off with no irons as an example that you don’t need irons if your dot goes bad. If you are going to run irons and a dot, I’d use flip ups that stay out of the way. :+1:t2:

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Thanks @Kona !
I would love to remove my front sight and run a flip-up Magpul sight but the pic-rail not being a true mill spec it probably wouldn’t sit flush anyways…

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I bought the thread protector to remove my front sight before the optic mount was even released. Kel Tec sells it direct. I don’t need irons as backup, but I do have a green laser I can use if my optic fails.

If you need to run a flip up, I understand he folding front sight by Red Lion is a nice piece. For the rear, I have an MCARBO peep installed so it does not autodeploy, but the next time I open it up, I’m going to be installing the rear sight delete block offered by Performance Services.

For me, a riser is not a best case solution. The farther the optic is mounted from the barrel, the more elevation adjustment required to get on target at distances different from your actual zero. IMO, the mounting requirements introduced by the AR Buffer Tubes have desensitized us to ridiculously high mounted optics. We are used to seeing optics mounted high and bullet drop reticles are a thing because the buffer tube prevents us from sighting an optic mounted close to the barrel.

I’d mount the optic as close to the barrel as possible while maintaining an achievable sight picture - the low riser in your case. This is my primary targeting solution so it’s suitability is critical. Now I’d fit my secondary targeting solution to minimize it’s interference with my primary solution. So, live without secondary which will likely not be used, install secondary irons that can be folded out of the way, or get creative with your secondary system.

In my case, the laser is zero’d at 10 yards with the dot zero’d at 25. My thinking is the laser is fastest and can target accurately from the hip. The 25 yard zero produces good enough results out to my 75/100 yard effective range.

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I was of the same mind as you, mainly with regard to the rear sight. So I modified the rear sight so it wouldn’t pop up (there are these wings that force it to deploy when it unfolds, you can cut them to stop that). Now I can fold up the rear sight if I want, and the front sight isn’t an issue.

Folding front sight is an option if you want to put the money in

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@Dred Thank you! very good read! I just placed an order from Kel-tec and I didn’t see the thread protector?
Have some things to consider I guess.
Cheers,
-Lou

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Thank you for the comment @TheThreeLaws The laser sounds like a good addition too!

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https://www.keltecweapons.com/product/s2k-803-thread-protector-long/

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@Dred Thanks Brother!
Just called them and had them add it to my order…

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So went to the range to dial in the S2K with the new mount.
I liked where the optic sits a lot with the riser. It’s very accurate. Still not sure if I want to remove the front iron sight. Still undecided lol

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There is no hard and fast rule for co-witnessing sights. You don’t need to see both sights simultsneously in 99%. Use it as a check not an operating policy. Personally I’d rather have a forward mounted laser and my fixed sights synced. For my actual mission, 25 -50 yds max, i’d really rather have either of those instead of the optic. I have a 45d offset on my rail that I use for an optic. If I’m going to an outdoor range I’ll use that. For home d open sights and laser with a flashlight. Here’s a photo from the front end:

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I prefer absolute co-witness. seen tomany dots and scopes go south to trust one 100% at 100% of the time. to me there are to many variables in hunting to only have one way to aim with any accuracy.

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Here’s some offset sights that I think would allow the S2k to still fold.
Not really enough rail to make these practical, but it could work.

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@ValorSoloThose are nice…Expensive too! Looks like good quality though
:slight_smile:

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@louie088

It ALL comes down to personal preferences… TOMATO TOMATOE :smiley:

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with iron sights, is just like scopes, quality costs. I always start looking for used Troy sights, HK style, during a build. I try to get em cost effective as possible but i always stick with that name brand. I know they hold dont bounce and work.
the Ozarks, I bought because i thought they were fair quality, I picked up a set. 1/8 of a inch bounce to fold position when they in the locked position.
they a cheap chicom copy of a Troy, and not a very good one. cost me 30$ to learn that lesson. cost me right at double that for a set of used Troy sights. but they wont bounce.
but, the ozarks do work for mockup .I dont have to worry bout scribe lines or sharpie marks, from custom fitting rail sections LOL
and although MAGPUL makes a lot of well made parts, I just dont like the shape of their folding sights… and i damn sure dont like poly ones…

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@lonewolf whar does the T come from? I always thought it was “MATER MATO” and "TATER TOTTO ":stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

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@GOBLIN

Buck, I rekkon that ‘T’ comes from Boston Harbor??? :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl: (You know your American History better than me!) :thinking: I’m N8tive…:grin:

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damn so is I…

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What the hell did ya’ll turn my thread into!? :laughing:

Google says this (not suggesting google is truth):
“Mencken mentions an English contemporary who felt that the “tomahto” pronunciation was “pedantic” and not to be preferred to “the good English tomato , rhyming with potato.” Nowadays “tomahto” is considered British pronunciation and “tomayto” American, but many Americans pronounce tomato {and aunt ) with a broad a”

-Lou

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