M*CARBO Brotherhood

Tips & Tricks For S2k


#273

don (or dred), i notice this last post in '12! do you know if anyone ever posted pics? i’m a little afraid to screw this up in terms of where to cut. here’s the post:

“Any chance of a pictorial of this process? I have read it a few times and I am still uncertain of where this cut needs to be made in order to keep the auto flip-up of the rear sight. I have seen the pics in the original mod (Faq) but I would like to try it without removing the sight.”


#274

@500c

I did not use a picture post, but I did use a bright light while slowly folding/unfolding until I determined where and how to cut the wings. I used a small set of side cutters to trim the wings for a limited interference that results in auto deploy and press to fold. You can cut the wings at the appropriate location while your sub is partially folded. A bright light is your friend. The alternative is to nibble away at the wings a halm millimeter at a time until you can pop them over the block by pressing when open.


#275

you know dred, i’m even having trouble understanding and locating the ‘wings’ and i’m not an idiot. hmm, i wonder what i’m missing.

isn’t it odd that this thread from '12 died? did that mean that not many found this approach useful? or went to the mcarbo instead?


#276

boy, i must really be missing something (is the gen2 the same here as the g1?), cause i don’t see any ‘wings’ at all. i see just a spring-loaded plastic sight that rides on a circular plastic ‘rail’ as the gun is unfolded.

what am i missing?


#277

Well … if you pull it out and lay it flat, you will see the wings. I’m typing from my phone so it’s difficult to pull a picture for you. The wings are what controls auto deployment and they are mostly hidden inside that blo k at the base of the sight when installed. It is possible to get a small pair of side cutters into that base block, but you have to figure out which part of the block is pushing on the wings (tabs if you prefer) so you can figure out where to cut to achieve your objective.

You are going to need LIGHT 'cause all the parts are black and you need enough light to figure what is part of what. If you haven’t had a flashlight in your hand while working it open and closed, no way you’ll be able to see the parts to understand their construction.

There are probably three pictures of the sight out of the block posted here in the last 7 days. Finding them will help.


#278

i’ll try again tnx


#279

are these what you mean? if yes, can i really get to them w/o dissassembly? and if so, how much to cut, from bottom, or to leave attached?

AND if these are what you mean:

. one of mine has a marking in the mold, just at the point i think you’re referring to? any idea what that is?
. more importantly, if i cut these successfully, when the sight is fully deployed (that is, vertical), will it be stabilized/fixed or flopping around on it’s axis?


#280

i’ll tell you dred, if the m-carbo folding rear were just a smidgen taller than .08", i’d just get that and be done w it, but i figure that if it actually won’t solve the cheek/buffer tube problem (and some reviews on the Brotherhood forum explicitly say it won’t), what’s the point? yes, to get ‘folding’, but not my original problem.


#281

Yes, those are what I called wings. Your ability to cut them with the sight installed will depend on your tool and ingenuity. Use a flashlight and observe which part of the base assembly is pushing on them to deploy the sight. You will cut them so that the sight is deployed by just a smidgen of the wing tab. What you are doing is reducing the size of the engagement with the sight base so that you can push on the sight and cause the tabs to slip the base.

It won’t be floppy. But if you remove too much of the tabs, it won’t auto deploy. I have a small set of precision side cutters and I was able to cut the tabs with the sight installed. I hit the mark on my first try so my sight autodeployed but could be pushed forward if I wanted it out of the way.

And, the M*CARBO notch sight is the tallest rear sight offered. It is significantly taller and some folks have reported needing a taller front sight post to create a sight picture they liked. The notch sight works fine with the factory post, but if you want to line the centerpost up on the same plane as the side posts, you will probably want to swap in a taller front post. The only Sub I’ve fired using the notch sight was zero’d with the top of the centerpost set halfway up the notch site posts.

Back to the sight mod … if you are uncomfortable with the operation, order one or more replacements from Kel Tec. KT prices it appropriately for a piece of plastic so your only really risking your time.


#282

got it; tnx as usual


#283

so i finally decided that the best solution for my needs (height) is to get the Mcarbo folding rear, in notch, at the currrent 20% discount, and be done with it


#284

RUBBERIZED GRIP TAPE BARGAIN

A well-known grip manufacturer sells its rubberized grip material in a 5 by 7 inch piece for around $11.00 which is reasonable enough though a bit pricey. I recently found and ordered a rubberized grip tape intended for use on boat decks and the like that appears to be identical in every respect to this product and have already applied it to one firearm with great results.

The best part is that a 4 inch wide by 12 foot long roll of the material sells for $27.48 in contrast to the greeting card sized piece you would get from the name brand for $11.00. You can do the math. For all I know, the grip manufacturer purchases their stock from this supplier. The Amazon Link is below.

EDIT TO ADD EXAMPLE

Below are photos of the tape applied to my S2K after 24 hours and one application of heat from a hair dryer. Look familiar? Remember that any fit errors come from my use of my own template design. The actual material is conforming well to the contours of the firearm, it handled curves without puckering and the verdict is still out on how well the seams come together where pieces overlap. More heat treatments may improve the joints. I think the overlapping sections on made to fit commercial pieces may be shaved thinner in which case my result will never be quite as good and will be no different than what you would get with the 5x7 sheet.