I am just installing my spring kit for my Thompson Compass Trigger. Package did not contain the secondary spring. It contained the Main Return Spring (1.5 and 2.5), the Sear Spring, but no Secondary spring. I am wondering if the game has changed and no need for new Secondary? Confused. Watched the installation video, shows new secondary as part of the package, so I am a bit confused. I am now wondering if was just missed when packaging -or- a new secondary is no longer needed and just re-install the Mfg. secondary spring upon when reassembling the trigger. If anyone knows that answer, would be much appreciated.
I put one of those packages in for a friend a couple years ago. If I haven’t totally lost my mind I’m pretty sure it came with one.
Thank you, I’m suspecting your right. Funny you posted, I just finished my pull test re-assembled with Mfg Secondary. On the 2.5lb, I’m averaging around 3lb 7oz of pull. My goal was 2.5 - 3 lb, but it is still a far cry from 5 lb 11oz on the stock setup.
Yeah they come with crappy triggers. I wasn’t too crazy about the stock either so i glass bedded the action in a Boyd’s Coyote thumb hole laminate stock with my buddie’s initials in it. He went nuts! The only thing was he was expecting to get the same accuracy that I was with my custom built 6.5 Creedmore with a #6 contour barrel. (never going to happen!)
Hmm, I wouldn’t mind doing the same, although I’ve never attempted such a feat as glass embedding. I generally stick to minor mods, I’m not a gunsmith per say, but I do enjoy working on them. I may read up more on this. That is a beautiful gun !!! You do great work I can clearly see. I’ve been concentrating on my particular gun more in the sense of performance (like your creedmore). Lapped, proper break-in etc. It took a bit, but my particular gun is “highly” accurate. I am laying rounds inside rounds at 100 yards, no noticable deviation on MOA @ 100 yards, but the gun looks stock. This is my first attempt at a “long” range gun, so wish me luck, I’m about to step this up to 800 yards and if looking good there, well the sky’s the limit I guess.
Good luck, proper break in of a barrel is 1/2 the battle and you’d be surprised how many people don’t bother! Then they wonder why they’re getting fliers and poor groups!
That’s my Creedmoor with the first scope I had on it. I was shooting against my buddy and his Savage.
Hey, pretty big improvement on my trigger, thought you might like to know. I’d like to thank you Grumpyolman for all you have shared, I really appreciate it. I’m just loving working on this gun, its so bloody accurate too. I guess sometimes it works hey
So ya, I am looking into Boyds now. I had totally forgetten who you went with and just did the Duck Duck Go thing, and WA LA. First hit on my search is Boyds. So I guess your on to something. But then I saw this like older video on Youtube on how important it is for those who like “More Better” real precision, it is to properly float your barrel, emphasis on “proper”. Not sure if you seen this older gentlement or video before, but its a 10 minute worthy of listening. I just love this guy. Check it out. Should you Freefloat your Rifle? ~ The answer! - YouTube
Have fun! Sounds like you got a good one, When free floating a barrel there are several areas that are critical, The most obvious is the recoil lug, when doing that you want your glass to approach where the barrel meets the action but not beyond! Another area that can be difficult but just as important is the area behind the rear of the action as this helps spread the force across the stock. There’s a lot of talk about pillar bedded actions. I’ll take a properly glass bedded action any day! For those that would argue that they just need to look at Browning’s “Hell’s Canyon” rifles. They are considered among the best for accuracy in the world and they are individually glass bedded!Of course they also have Miroku barrels which are also the best factory barrels in the world hands down!