SUB2K Reset Issue


Sometimes my Walther that’s completely stock does this.

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I noticed that when I lock the bolt back and then release it with the trigger depressed, it resets the trigger. When I just pull it all the way back and then release it with the trigger depressed, it doesn’t reset the trigger. I took mine to the range today and it worked like a charm. I doubt I will take it apart again to sand it, unless it starts malfunctioning. After the 1000’s of rounds that the testers put through it, I don’t expect mine to act up.

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@jwasher you’re fix is in here.


Doesn’t beechwood make a rust inhibitor?


Well, I guess I’m glad I’ve been too busy at work to do this install. Sometimes it pays off not to be in such a hurry? Great that it seems to be an easy fix and glad that I did not have to install and remove it again to do it.

@ChrisNelson I’m assuming you will be “fixing” all the stock you have in house to be shipped out? Also, don’t sweat this issue brother! It’s great that you have the brotherhood to catch it early enough as to not cause too much bad feedback. This issue is not really a bad one, in fact for most of use “tinkerers” it is a nice challenge to find a resolution to. Now not having enough rocksett to support each muzzle break sold, now THAT was a fail. :stuck_out_tongue: J/K lol


Thanks Kona ! For all your Great Input and Time on this’


Great work Chris’ and All who Gave Their feed back to the Issue on the trigger bar’ Pretty Damn Impressive to Have a Fix and cure in the the Time it took 24 hrs or less’ (most Companies would still be at the I don’t know Stage’s and What do you think):sunglasses:?


Kona is the workhorse of this forum so far, we need to hook him up with some parts or supplies or :pizza: & :beer: or something for his efforts… :+1:


Amen’ I wonder if he and Family like (Fresh Halibut)from SE AK ? He can have
brews and Domino’s Anywhere! :rofl:


Dude - I would do a backflip for some fresh halibut from AK! One of the things on my bucket list is to do a charter halibut fishing trip trip out of Neah Bay Wa. to Canadian water. I’ve always been kind of a land locked mountain/wilderness kinda guy catchin rainbows and eastern brook trout …


“I did it for the people.”- The Rock

Haha! I’m a huge pro wrestling nut. On a serious note I’m just trying to contribute to the group and I’m glad to be a part of something like this. This place has really taken off and MCARBO deserves all the credit in the world. I don’t know how one actually refuses Alaskan Halibut though hahaha!


Had a chance to do fix after work. Used small jewelers file broke the corner down. 1200 grit with mothers polish to smooth and polish.

Super easy and now completed function test.

Great place to be. Thanks again Chris for another great part. Dont stress no one is perfect and this was such a small SNAFU.

You know what ever you put out is die hard will buy. Lol

Waiting on my RDB and p11. Hint hint


Alright, so I got around to sanding some of it down. Currently unable to induce a malfunction. I get it was fine with live fire, but it’s how I wanted it. Only took a moment to do, nothing invasive. If your taking your sub apart and putting parts in (especially polishing the feed ramp) then you can do this. Super freakin easy. Here are some pics of it installed.


I retired as a tech in the Navy, and have been a tech in industry for years, so I have lots of practice doing critical thinking/trouble shooting. I also have done several S/A target triggers on pieces which started as D/A. These have Minimal takeup and overtravel, as well as lighter springs. Here are some thoughts: first, the lighter springs are less forgiving of any rubbing or slight interference. One reason for the heavy factory pull, and long reset, is that the factory production can be less exact, and there just are not many issues due to manufacturing tolerances. The manufacturer saves money by not having extra machining, and not having to tweak and tune to get a reliable product. If you want a lighter trigger and/or shorter action, you may have to do some detail work. This is not a failing of new trigger bar! It is just a consequence of reducing the factory long/heavy trigger. Lighter/more precise is not always drop-in. We really don’t want to force Chris to have to introduce more slop in the trigger bar design, due to the natural consequence of having a close/tight trigger. Comments continued on the next post.


Continued from earlier comment: the first thing to look at would be the video which Chris did , showing the area of interference where the polymer rubs the trigger bar. Also, an earlier comment had a good suggestion, with pics! where the fellow used a softer material to show the physical contact. Scotch tape or even some label tape from a label maker. Sand the polymer by hand and use the finest grit which works. Power tools will generate heat and melt plastics. This will cause more problems. Also a light polish with 1000 or more grit will help but you do lose some metal finish. You only need to do the high areas, so put your trigger bar and paper on a hard flat surface.


Continued front two earlier comments: I think that Mcarbo team did an outstanding job on the trigger bar. They had to leave enough slop so that it would be a drop-in part. It could have been even tighter but that would have produced more reliability issues, without some more gun smithing on our part. Having zero need of tweaking, would have resulted in a part which was little better than the factory part. From the descriptions which I have read, I think that Chris and Mcarbo did a good job of compromise drop-in vs short take-up!


Just got back from a range session, the new trigger bar performed flawlessly, nothing to report but a good time had… I didn’t shave mine down so it still doesn’t reset when manually charging with trigger pulled but when live firing, I cannot induce that failure. So in conclusion, my report is that there is nothing to report👍


Good stuff man! Thanks for the report. Im glad to hear everything functioned flawlessly. Are you planning to break your kel tec down and shave that corner off the trigger bar or are you just gonna leave it as is? I’m on the fence about doing it, i just really don’t feel like breaking down my kel tec again if i really dont have to lol. I haven’t had the chance to shoot it with the new trigger bar installed.

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Mine shot fine before and after rounding the corner. Just got back from the range after firing about 150 rounds after rounding the corner off on the trigger bar. Gun ran flawless. Honestly, if you don’t mind it not resetting when you ride the charging handle back on an empty chamber, I wouldn’t worry about it. I have run about 150 rounds before and after rounding the trigger bar and during live fire, it ran flawless both ways.


Gotta love’ Mothers!! and Jewelers file, 10 minutes done NEXT’ Range tested this afternoon and all Worked Well as Advertised (complete function test before and during range test.