SUB2K Reset Issue

#121

Maybe, but after I rounded mine off about 1/32" it works great with the collar nut on tight.

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#122

@ChrisNelson “The mark of a true craftsman is not one who doesn’t make mistakes, it’s one who can fix them” My confidence in MCARBO is not shaken. I think you got the fix brother, now that I see it that is exactly what it felt like when I was getting a “partial reset” - I was feeling the TB just barely hook on the sear on the tip of that corner and then slip off. A small bug to be worked in the first production run is just going to happen at some point unfortunately but collectively we will get it sorted out quickly. After all… “None of us is as smart as all of us” :wink: :+1: I still can’t get over how incredible it is that a bunch of average Joe’s can take a bunch of MCARBO aftermarket parts and install them all at once and have it function virtually flawlessly. After successful and proper reassembly that is, like you said if was too easy it wouldn’t be fun. :+1:

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#123

Love that personal touch, that’s why I buy mcarbo, the brotherhood is also nice but when the president is a brother, it just works. No faith lost here brother!

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#124

Well said Kona. I bought mine to shoot. That is has done very well for over 1500 rounds. I am not going to be concerned about the function test.

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#125

Just checked my S2K .40 Glock and same issue but I will follow Chris’s video and fix the issue because the advantages of the new trigger bar is well worth my time. If you can’t or don’t want to fix it yourself I’m sure MCARBO will fix it and get it back to you faster than Kel-Tec would. Thanks Chris for the quick response and fix video for this issue that I didn’t even know I had. Would also like to thank Djaun (Duane) for posting about this issue.

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#126

For people who have done the fix or are intending to, for possible rust issues are you going to cold re-blue the area or something now that the plating has been removed?

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#127

@Wedge That’s a great thought on protecting that bare metal spot, am interested to read ideas out there. I will probably coat the area with Super Lube w/PTFE which I still have from MCARBO’s Performance Trigger Job Bundle.

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#128

That’s exactly what I did. Coated with some of the PTFE grease.

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#129

Before shot

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#130

After shot

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#131
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#132

Awesome pics and vid Kona - great job! :+1:

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#133

Thanks Brother. I appreciate that.

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#134

@Kona Awesome video Brother! Thank you for the feedback on the fix.

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#135

Dave this is spot on.

It’s a very minor bare spot that will not create much for surface rust. Not to mention it’s moving against other parts. Coating it with PTFE will be the best solution to prevent any rust on the bare spot.

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#136

Yes Sir! Thank you for your Support!

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#137

This is Awesome! Thanks Brother for your Support. We’ve got a solid group here. Glad to be a member and happy to have the immediate feedback like this on new parts. Really happy we could find an immediate solution together.

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#138

Thank you for the feedback. It’s certainly possible that some won’t be affected at all due to the tolerance differences between firearms and parts.

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#139

I’ve got a whole tub of that stuff, but I wouldn’t count on it long term. It’s going to migrate away from the area over time. The scraping of the sear engagement peg against that area of the trigger bar will have it back down to bare metal pretty quickly. IMO, it should be re-plated or hot re-blued. Cold bluing/touch up pen probably wouldn’t last long, either.

#140

@Kona As for short stroking it, all you have to do is pull it back until you hear the click. That’s when the hammer is cocked and the trigger should not be dead. That’s how I knew every single time I tested it that I’d have a dead trigger. No click when slowly pulling back the bolt.

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