M*CARBO Brotherhood

Sub 2k trigger spring replacement

I did the full interior sub 2k replacement and while all works nicely and trigger pull is butter, I expect to feel the click of the wall on trigger release, however now I don’t feel anything. Did I do something wrong or is that spring to light? Anyone else notice this?

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My reset is tactile. That said, mine is one of the very early units that I modded to achieve reset.

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Had a trigger job too. I can both hear and feel the trigger reset.

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@jw3104 I can hear and feel the trigger reset after my trigger job.

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Ok then, something is wrong. I need to at least feel the reset. Going to have to reverse engineer my mod and figure out where it is. In my Glock I actually put a heavier spring in for return.

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@jw3104 We are all here to learn so please keep us up-to-date with your progress. :+1:

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I was kinda hoping someone from Mcarbo support was watching posts and would chime in with what was wrong…but yeah as soon as I have time to cut my grips and reopen the sub and possibly call support, I will figure it out.

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Just a suggestion… have your grips stippled instead of using adhesive grips. You won’t have to buy new grips again. I just had my G43 done…


Next time I have to open the S2K I will have those grips stippled as well.

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@TexasEskimo Did you take it to a gun smith or somewhere that’s does it often?

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@jw3104 I have the stick on grips…just cut it where the seam is and leave it that way for future openings.

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@jw3104 I had my gunsmith do it. But if you have the time and tools it’s a fairly easy DIY project. Just go to YouTube and do a search on stippling a gun/firearm/grip.
It is sooooo much better than any adhesive grip I have ever purchased… they all wear out and can be slippery when wet. These do not.

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So I managed to cut my grip cover without damage and opened my sub back up. All appeared good but I noticed the trigger bar action was not smooth reseated everything and it was much better. It looked like the hammer bushing was a bit high on the sear then it was supposed to be. Got it all back together then couldn’t lock hammer back. Took it apart again, further this time reseated all again and CAREFULLY, snapped back together and all was good. Job took half the day, lost sear spring twice and c lock once as they flew through my shop but all good and I feel and hear trigger reset now. It sucks after all that the most annoying part was the stupid lock nut on the charging handle took me 6 tries and that little job has to be done all the time…they need to work on that design.

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@jw3104

Glad to hear you got that sorted.

Six is actually pretty good. Lol. I found it nearly impossible until I put a little dab of gun grease on it to hold it into place.

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I think we have probably all launched a spring or two into orbit, there has to be a pile of detents,springs,balls and various other bits in my room that fly and are never ever seen again, and all of us at one time or another have questioned the sanity and morals of various gun designers.
im still convinced that the designer of the Ruger MKII was a sado masochist with extreme sociopathical tendencies. as many firearms as ive restored, put back together, rebuilt, and as long as Ive had one (2 actually, 1 std,1 Bull barrel) it still takes me at least 2 tries, and a buttload of cussing to reassemble. so anytime ,im working on something say a lever action Winchester, and its being a lil problematic, i just remind myself well, it could be a Ruger MKII. and everything is instantly better.
W e all Have our nemisis.

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So the lighter trigger pull is nice, but I really want to reduce the length of the trigger pull as well. I’m not exactly sure what part controls that if if it can be changed, I assume its the trigger arm.