@IBTJn welcome to the forum larry
Thank you. Looking forward to learning from you guys for sure! First I have to learn to navigate the forum. LOL!
I’ll mic 'em when my new pins arrive. Update to follow soon.
@Zjan curious to see how much they wearing in that shorta span. notching that extractor only buys a lil time, not a fix but a bandaid as i call em. you made a good call on not doing that JJ.
Quick update… I called Rueger and convinced them to send me a new extractor, spring, pin and bolt head pins. Tho I intend to use the MCARBO versions when they arrive (still a few weeks away on the B/O extractor), I’ll try running some rounds thru the Rueger replacements to see if the issue persists.
Hi all. Received my MCARBO bolt head pins today and measured old vs new. The new are solid .152" diamer and in my opinion perfectly round.
The old worn pins (laying on thier side in pic attached) are .152" at the head end and round. At the worn end I see “ovaling” from .1525 to .1519. I don’t have the tools to measure some of the scaring but suffice to say they are NOT round and are most likely skewing the bolt head a tiny amount forward and “crooked” in its slot. Don’t know if when chambered, the round pushes the bolt head back towards the firing pin and if so how much? Is the bolt head floating and thus impacted by worn pins? My extractor will be here soon but will fire it with the new spring and pin combo to see what happens.
The saga continues…
Send it back to Ruger for free and make them fix it. You’ll get it back super fast, too. As much as I love MCARBO parts, I always highly recommend to get things running properly in a 100% stock configuration before upgrading. If you don’t do that first, the upgrades may not fix the underlying issue and you’ll just end up chasing your tail, never truly fixing the issue. I would not have done one upgrade to my S2K if it didn’t have 100% reliability out of the box. Thankfully, mine did but, if it didn’t, it would have immediately been sent back to Kel-Tec before any upgrading.
For the record - I have agreed, after Rueger sends me a new set of block pins and extractor set, if it still exhibits that behavior I will send it to them for diagnosis. I will eventually just use the MCARBO parts but I agree that Rueger should make it right. They indicated that me having a trigger kit installed is not a problem and just return all the bolt parts to original, which I will do.
The military engineer in me compels me to study and address the issue myself but the cheapo in me wants it right to begin with!
Ok. Update! Still have original extractor in place with new MCARBO pins and the MCARBO spring kits. Disaster. All spent rounds were ejected. Now I have a problem with rounds loading into the breech. I was using blunt nose jacketed rounds today with the MCARBO breech block pins, MCARBO extra power recoil spring and trigger kit. I do not feel the trigger kit has any impact on the round loading properly so have discounted that. Once again, not one spent casing failed to eject. It was the live rounds Failure To Feed today that was the big issue. I’m still waiting for the MCARBO extractor and as noted before, Rueger is sending me new pins and an extractor as well. Gonna switch to FMJ rounds and wait for the new extractors before I send it back to Rueger in stock form. As our grand guru Demming used to school us with the concept of tampering to find a solution, I will give it one more try before returning the PC9 to stock form and let the manufacturer figure it out for me!
Couple of shout outs: The trigger kit and muzzle brake are nothing short of awesome! It did get thru a 30rd magazine once today (out of 250 rounds fired overall) and with rapid fire and on the move the weopon felt really comfortable and was hitting the target with a 4" max spread!
More to follow… (hey I’m retired and have thousands of rounds laying around and plany time to kill… Hahaha)
Latest update…MCARBO Extractor has arrived! Wow! Seriously a thing of beauty. Will be shooting this week and will report results on some observations I’ve made re this fail to chamber issue. As mentioned I’m pretty certain this is more of a flat nose or tactical round shape issue combined with a very high ramp. I will be writing Chris to see if they can design a magazine Ala AR style that curves forward to accomadate the non parallel 9mm (ironically named) Parabellum round!
The first 200 rounds or so worked pretty well then started stove piping while we were at a match, a fellow member came over and suggested i tighten the screw on top i did and problem went away. With me being me and not happy with loose screw i stripped the gun down and checked the other screws they were loose as well . The screws in question are called Button Head Screws with no mention of them in the owners manual,so i sent an email off to Ruger they claim not to have a problem with them vibrating loose , anyway i received the torque value for them and with blue loctite my problem is solved, have shot two matches since about 300 rounds and no problems
@Pappa, the Ruger PCC is one of my favorites to shoot and it is a little banger, literally. I’ve had my front sight screws, the top receiver screw you mention as well as the front takedown screw loosen on their own. Both the top receiver screw and front takedown screw will cause feed and stovepipe issues if they come loose, even a tiny bit. I did a complete tear down for a cleaning after I discovered them loosening up and VC3’d every one of them, not an issue since.
I don’t think those torque values are published so if you’d care to drop them here, I for one would be grateful…I just used the old torque wrench arm for mine…
As an update to the topic of bolt pins and extractor, I did check my pins and after 1542 rounds through the PCC, I can say mine are showing signs of wear but still not causing issues. I did go ahead and purchase the parts from MCARBO just in case but for now I’m still running the stock parts.
My PCC9 had loads of stove pipes and just about every malfunction possible in the first few hundred rounds…everything looked fine when I dissembled, inspected and cleaned all of the parts.
One day it just stopped malfunctioning and worked “normal”…with all types of ammunition. I think it was just a long break-in, which I have found on several other newly manufactured guns…all semi auto’s.
In the Glock configuration the magazine will not lockup in the well like the Ruger design does…,but it still should work without issues.
What I noticed is you can’t slam the Glock magazines up without putting extra force on the Ejector…which will push it up high enough to touch the bottom of the moving bolt assembly. There is a gap between the removable bolt head and the rest of the bolt. If the tip of the Ejector touches it can hang up the cycle action and cause stove pipes, fail to feed etc. I actually made a slight bend in the tip of the Ejector so there’s no chance of it hanging up…causing all kinds of malfunctions.
Since my PCC9 started to run properly I have installed many MCARBO
parts and still have 0-malfunctions.
Get to know the Ejector and it’s clearance to the bottom of the bolt and look for signs of wear on the underside and Ejector tip.
Here’s the OEM ejector on the left and the one I test modified on the right. As long as it doesn’t touch the bottom of the bolt even the OEM Ejector should work fine. Be aware there is a sideways alignment that should be inspected as well.it could be rubbing on the side of the groove it rides in…possibly slowing down the bolt action or hanging up.
I removed the Ejector from the adapter and used a vice, hammer, and 4” vice grip to control the bend process.
Sorry i forget to mention the torque value of button head screws from Ruger between 50 and 65 inch pounds, not sure why the big spread i put mine at 55 inch pounds with blue loctite
No worries @Pappa, good post and always nice to have torque specs.
If you use the factory irons, I would suggest a remove and install on the front sight, pull the screws, add thread locker of choice and reassemble.
Look at lower right of this photo and you can see my ejector is skewed in the groove (actually dragging…) AND if you look closer, it is also twisted or not parallel to the slide.
Gonna do the “bend” adjustment and will get back to you!
Jan J. (zjan)
Hey all. Forgot to mention… Thank you to all that warn of funny kine or weird shot noise…had a bullet lodge in the barrell the other day and although the shell ejected the sound wasn’t quite right. My instincts kicked in and told me to stop and check. Glad I did and after some pounding from the muzzle side using an aluminum rod was able to dislodge and clean the barrell post jam. Again! HEED ALL WARNING SIGNS THAT SOMETHING IS WRONG WHEN SOMETHING GOES WRONG!
Take good pictures from all angles, of all parts before you make any changes. Sometimes looking at quality pictures can discover symptoms tired eyes can’t. It helped me many times.
I’ve had to do that for the front and rear both were loose
Which x grip did you use and what if I’m using a 31 round mag? Yes, forward and rearward play is an obvious issue.