M*CARBO Brotherhood

RL forend no likey brass deflector

I got the spiffy Red Lion forend and front sight from Santa. Yesterday I got down to bidness and managed to remove the original parts without destroying the Sub although I did manage to slightly bend my medium duty bench vise …

I mounted up my optic nicely on the rail, which is like everything from RL superbly machined… all looked good and the flip down front was seeming to actually be pretty much radially on center.

THEN I went to close the sub and found that there is not enough clearance between the knurled forend control part and the receiver to allow space for my installed and somewhat appreciated brass deflector.
Removed deflector and all works perfect, except for the part where I am gonna get hit in the face with hot brass and the like.

Just wanted to let ya lefty types know of this little gotcha. I do like the Red Lion indexing MLOK forend with a couple 17 slot rails. Feels good. Works like butter. Nice finish and machining. Front sight is nice also.
My RD is very happy to be on such a fancy assemblage.
BUT I’m gonna have to ponder how to do a brass deflector without it wrapping across the top of the receiver grip area. There isn’t enough room to allow full locking when folded. Almost but not quite. I’ll ponder it after I go to the range later this week to re zero my sights and such.
Maybe it’s not such a big deal without a deflector, I can’t recall to tell the truth, but there HAD to be a reason I would put such a thing on my little camp gun…

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which Gen sub you have? got the redlion on my Gen 1, im a southpaw ,sorta i shoot both sides, seeif i can figure something out, got a pic of the one you got mounted?

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Mine is a Gen 2 .

I’m thinking of bonding a wedge type deflector at the rear of the ejection port…

Heading for the range this morning to do the sight adjustments. I’ll try to judge the need for the deflector. I put the Mcarbo deflector on right after I got the rifle late last summer. I know I still get lots of garbage flying out the port onto my right arm, but I haven’t had any brass hitting me in the face or anything like that. I’ll check it out again and ponder.
I’ll take a pic of the rig when I get a chance.

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Went to the range. Got the sights and red dot zeroed pretty nice.

I went through another hunnert rounds and everything worked well. I did NOT even notice the lack of the deflector so I’m not gonna spend a whole lot of time on that issue, but do plan on working up an AR type deflector to fit at the back of the ejection port opening… one of these days.

I DID have to re-tighten the forend barrel bolts cuz the first time I did the slingshot with the bolt it came loose and moved forward just a bit. I had been shy to not over tighten those but when I put a little more juice to them everything stayed in place just fine.
The RL forend doesn’t hold in quite so much heat where the barrel meets the receiver, IMHO . Nice and cool after rapid fire no matter where ya put yer hand…

Life is GOOD.

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mine would jiggle loose from time to time, think it cause of the way they positioned them and they right hand thread (should be left hand turn) hadnt had to re-tighten em since i went from locktite to Vibra-tight, torque hasn’t changed in 1000 rnd count


https://www.vibra-tite.com/threadlockers/removable-reusable-threadlockers/vibra-tite-vc-3-threadmate/

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Thanks for the info. I’m a recovering lefty with the deflector on my gen2 40, wanting to go this same direction with upfit. Curious to know if the RL front sight would solve this clearance problem, and also what RL tech has to offer to resolve this. :+1:

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whats your clearance issue, and if its on a deflector how thick is the material.

The interference was at the area between the knurled control knob of the RL indexing unit and the top of the sub receiver. The material is kydex supplied by Mcarbo. It MIGHT work if a much thinner kydex was used, but probably not. There is very little clearance between those two parts when locking the sub closed. ANY pressure at that point will pull the forend up out of the edge of the deployment latch.

The RL folding front sight works fine up or down and fits nicely into the well of the buttstock. The RL forend hand guard has a rim which latches solid with the Mcarbo enlarged deployment latch and I think it would work just fine with the OEM latch also, as long as there is not the kydex material of the Mcarbo brass deflector pushing it open.

Not a big deal in my case. I’ll look at working up a wedge type deflector block to bond to the rear of the receiver behind the ejector port . Another method would be to use a flat type deflector attached above the port using the rail as the mounting point I think. At the moment I’m just gonna leave it be since I haven’t had any real issue with flying things hitting me in the head. Actually the gun leaves less residue on my right arm without the deflector…

I AM gonna run the gun another couple times making sure the bolts are tightened well and I have no issues.
Thanks for info on the VC-3 Threadmate.

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I’ll add that there is enough variance between examples of the Sub 2K that one must assume the clearance between these parts will vary somewhat on different rifles so what doesn’t work on one may work just fine on another example of the same gen 2 rifle. JMHO

Also I’ll add that I still have a ball with this little camp gun. It is a hoot to shoot, and is quite accurate and pleasant to shoot. It fits easily into the hard box panniers of my adventure motorcycle which I ride every morning out into the desert. I’m very happy with the Sub 2K .

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