So my wife bought me the trigger kit, recoil buffer and a bunch of other parts. Is this relatively simple for anyone to do as long as they follow the instruction videos or is this something that’s more meant for a smith to do?
Perfectly doable following the videos. I did mine in about 30 min watching and pausing the video as I went along. I don’t know which parts you already have but if you think you’ll want to replace trigger guard, feed ramp, etc. I’d recommend replacing all the internals at one time so you’re only going into the gun once.
I have the $200 trigger kit, charging handle, recoil buffer and im not quite sure about the ramp but i’ll have to look into that.
The $200 kit has everything so you’re good to go. Be sure to watch the video on polishing the feed ramp.
Perfectly doable with a good mindset and some mechanical ability. If you’re indeed a gun hobbyist, then it is important to know and handle your own firearm. Just also keep in mind that things do happen beyond your control and you need to consider your own safety when a situation occurs and you are unsure of your ability to correct it. Safe shooting, my friend!
Thank you sir! I’ve put together a few AR’s in the past, so i can assume it’s in the same realm of understanding it all and I dont need any crazy tools to do it.
No question and/or tool is ‘crazy’ if it works for YOU… You can get a lot of opinions (anywhere,) but safety is always my main concern. Just want to keep guns a safe sport and protect our 2nd Amendment Rights! Anything else is just ‘acquired knowledge’ in which we are all here to interchange ideas! Safe and happy shootin’, my friend!
That’s cool your wife got you the trigger kit. Yes, it is not difficult because the instructional video is great and it is a drop in kit. I think it’s better to do it yourself rather than having a gunsmith do it because you will know how to take it apart to do a deep cleaning.
I’ve always just ran a boresnake through to clean the barrel and i feel like there should be more that needed to be done. So this will help!
When you open it up, you will see how dirty the hammer, sear and connector are. At some point, it might cause the trigger to feel gritty. I am going to open it up and do a deep cleaning when I get to 2000 rounds.
I thought about that too. That direct blowback makes a mess. In the meanwhile I found a bottle brush to send up the grip to break loose some of the crud dust
Watch the MCARBO insatll videos
I would suggest the following threads
Do a word search for the following
tips and tricks for S2K Tips & Tricks For S2k
Polishing trigger parts hammer and sear Polishing Trigger Parts (Hammer, Sear, Trigger Bar)
Trigger creep Trigger Creep Elimination
how low can trigger pull be How Low Can Trigger Pull Be Reduced?
Start from the top of the threads and read down. In these threads you can gain hours and weeks of info from some of the best members here.
I am going to add this to the tips and tricks post but will insert here fast.
I know the triggerbar needs to be held out of way to make it easy to insert safety pin. This issue is addressed in the MCARBO install videos.
Here is how I do it. if someone else has posted this please forgive me.
IMO this is easier and faster. have the gun ready to install safety pin. see picture below.
See triggerbar in FIRE position.
Take a suitable tool,pin,punch, screw driver and push triggerbar into the SAFE position and pull trigger rearward and hold until safety pin is slipped into place, release trigger and proceed to using the MARS REENTRY method of installing detente pin into safety pin.
I like the idea of a 12 ga boresnake through the bolt tube to clean it. I must try that. I usually spray with bore cleaner and shove rags through it.
And that’s a fact. Certainly helped me, not only with my S2K
But also with my CZ P09
was hoping for sub 4lb but got a light tight sub 3lb trigger pull. HOOYAH
That’s what I do. Wrap a patch around a 12 gauge brush, spray it gun cleaner and run it through the receiver tube. The hard part is cleaning the feed ramp.
Dang, isn’t that the truth. I had the thought of heating and bending a curve into a kid size tooth brush
Sir, Thank you ! By the way FROM ALL THAT CONTRIBUTED let me say good shooting to you.
As with any tool when the tool works smoothly then the results come.
The S2K becomes alot different gun once all the parts function smoothly.
Glad to hear that great minds work
if that does not get real clean then take a 12ga. swab, wrap it with a 4 inch patch then wrap that with a piece of 400 grit paper and practice some more ( you have to experiment until you get a working combination). After the 400 i suggest 1000 cloth…Then a good cleaning and dry…
Then treat the interior with the swab and patches treated with Tetra grease or some other synthetic compound like Militec (please excuse spelling) until you get real tired of doing so. Clean it out and use Superlube w/ PTFE on bolt and charging rod.
I have been doing the above ( with variations) to all shotguns since I was Knee high to my first pump shotgun.
Do not forget ;
Rounding the bevel on the rear of the charging rod where the spring goes into it,
Deburring all internal penetrations of the charging tube,
Radius the front of the rail on the bottom of rail on the firing bolt to smoothen out it contact with the hammer as it goes forward into battery,
Minimize the amount of HK SLAM charging of the rounds to reduce creating wear of the internal surface of the tube where chaging handle rod goes into tube.
Less vibration translates into smoother running which should translate into accuracy.
That will get rid of the rough vibration when you pull charging bolt rearward and after every time you send a round down range.
I accomplished my Glock 9mm version awhile back. Will be working on my multi mag version soon. working on getting / finding cases for both. Definitely watch the video clips. I watched them on my IPAD when I was accomplishing the upgrade.