I just got back from shooting the S2k. I moved my red dot back toward the butt and expected it to need to be re zeroed . It was not the case. Shot the same before and after the move . Is that normal? I know that it was only a few inches (2) but the results were unexpected. Any input from the collective knowledge here
I just switched a zeroed red dot from my .22 AR pistol to the sub and vice versa. Same exact red dots but for some reason one had front threads and the other didn’t (I added a sun shade). I had to re-zero both. Sometimes the sun is shining, the birds are chirping, other times you’re zeroing all over again.
@Kona Gotta love it when the birds are chirping
Bought a Sight-Mark Wolverine red dot for my S2k. Zeroed it at 50 yds and after installing almost everything Mcarbo offers the weapon feels solid. Was frustrated because now weapon is sighted can’t fold it without removing scope. Bit the bullet and removed red dot until I could get something to mount scope and also fold. Two weeks later, mounted scope intending to have to re-zero. Happy surprise!! Carbine was still zeroed!! Now after at least a dozen times mounting and dismounting the scope still puts rounds in the “A” zone (or head) of my IPSCA targets. Shooting free standing, kneeling, or on the move the scope performs flawlessly. Sheeezz, hope I didn’t just jinx myself!!
@russ I don’t think you will be jinxed , I hope. I’m going to move my red dot back to the original position just to see if the slight movement really matters. In my case with my old eyes, probably not.
With ya brother on the “old eyes”. Seems I’m looking through a dust storm from all the floaters. Marked the rail slot when zeroed, and now return it to same slot every time. Course it takes the bifocals to see things.
@russ Recently had cataract surgery and don’t need glasses anymore, sounds great, but I have to learn how to judge distances all over again. Red dots make life a little easier.
It really helps to file down the tops of the “peaks” on the upper Pic rail since they’re not flat. This introduces a lot of potential error when remounting an optic. Just take a flat bastard (yes, that’s what it’s called) file and file things down nice and flat in the mounting area 90 degrees to the barrel. It’s easy going and won’t take long. Nice thing is you won’t be left with discolored polymer afterwards, at least in black. Those “peaks” allow the optic to wobble from side to side when reattaching your quick mount or whatever.
Just reminding folks that this is not required for a proper mount. So, if your mount s having troubles this may help. Pic rail on my Sub is peaked. But I haven’t had any problems squaring the scopes I’ve played with.
@Wedge When I mount the red dot on the Pic rail I give it a little push to the side and it sits nice and tight. Just have to remember which way you pushed when you remount it , so it sits in the same spot with the same slight cant
Great tip! and also Back? for recoil? And I’m waiting for Someone to make a Mini Magnifier for those who have the Old Man eye thing.
No, push it forward when you lock your mount down as that’s the way the optic is going to want to drift. That’s why I filed my rails flat. Press straight down and push forward. No remembering “which side” to rock it to. I didn’t come up with this filing thing, as I’d seen it mentioned several times before. It definitely affects some people and it works.
Perhaps it depends on the rifle. It sure made a difference on mine and I’m not the only one, either.
Thank you’ Ass Backward’s Again,I Posted my Idea on the Filing of Rail when I Noticed the Crown and it’s Affect on my U.T.G Mount for my Burris 3 Fast Fire.