can you remove the plastic collar on a sub 2000 gen 2 and screw on the metal collar? will it mess up the receiver or can i just tighten down the metal threaded collar where the plastic collar was/is?
No, they’re different sizes. On my gen 1 I screwed on a standard AR castle nut instead of the hokey collar that must be glued. I don’t know if it would work on a gen 2 or if you’d need to mod the end of the handgrip. Technically, the screws are what hold the grip halves together and I’ve shot mine without it, but Keltec is so stingy they wouldn’t put something on the firearm that added one penny of extra cost to them, so I wouldn’t use the S2k long without something there.
thank you so much! i’ll order the castle nut today and you’re right, kel tec are so cheap that i hear squeaks
it doesn’t work on the gen 2 plastic collar - i could remove the plastic collar and try to screw the castle nut on? how would i mod the end of the hand grip?
Like I said, I didn’'t know if an AR castle nut would work on a gen2. I haven’t worked on one so I can’t answer your question about modding it. You can always buy the grip halves from Kel-tec for $50 to test your ideas.
Is there a specific reason you want to do away with the polymer collar? Is it loose/coming off/broken? A replacement should be covered under warranty but they also sell them for $7.25.
Be aware any mods you make would have to be reversed if warranty work was required. There definitely should be something holding the back of the grips together - there’s really nothing else supporting the tube - the closest support is the screw behind the hammer and sear.
Any of the brothers have ideas on a substitute?
thank you for your input!
The gen 1 nut is a larger internal circumference than the gen 2. I accidentally bought both gen nuts for my gen 2 with a plastic collar. The gen 1 probably would have went on with minimal material removal but i ended up sanding down more to fit the gen 2 metal nut but I’m ok with that because the tool grooves allowed for better engagement to put on or remove.
mine was finger loose when i bought it…just fyi
After breaking down my sub2k to install upgrades, and seeing what is actually holding it together…
I would feel more comfortable that this gun won’t explode in my face if I installed a “tactical hose clamp” vs. the factory plastic spring collar. WTF is up with that part??
That concern aside, I tested my mods today, and my sub2k was transformed from a toy gun into a real one, with 100% reliability.
Thay being said, I hope I don’t go blind, or have a bolt assembly impale my shoulder.
Of course I was being facetious about a bolt through my shoulder, etc.
My main concern with the collar it that it is supposed to clamp the little plastic lugs on the grip panels to the receiver tube. Those plastic lugs, and the feed ramp are the only parts that prevent rearward motion of the receiver, and maintain alignment under firing stresses.
With the plastic collar “locked” in place, there is still a small gap at the rear of the grip panel that I can close with hand pressure. That collar does not adequately support the rear of the grip frame, and is a potential failure point.
As I stated before, a hose clamp would do a better job than the factory collar.
I was thinking about that same idea too. I have my s2k en route to the factory to convert it from 9mm to .40.
The grip halves on the parts diagram show threads.
Once at the factory a technician will call me to go over pricing for the conversion and any follow on work I may want but since it’s already there I’ll ask if I can swap out the grip halves for the threaded halves that will take a metal collar.
The “threads” are created by the metal collar and are very shallow and very fine. The collar will slip off without loc-tite. An AR castle nut will cut deep enough threads that it won’t slip off or unscrew and it doesn’t need loc-tite. Just make sure the nut is straight when you put it on the first time - nobody wants to see your crooked nuts.