P365 SAS take-down

I tried pushing up on that wedge-shaped doodad but it wouldn’t move at all.

Also, while you may be right about the safety bar being bent, when the FCU is fully assembled, it seems to me that there’s no room for anything that is out of line to fit.

Every time I emptied the magazine at the range, the slide locked open after the final round. The gun worked perfectly for over 100 rounds.

My slide returns to the normal rest position every time I release the slide lever catch. I’m not sure what you mean by “sometimes you have to give it a firm push.” There’s really nowhere to push it because it has already gone as far as it can go. I could insert a magazine and shoot the gun again right now.

But I thought of one other thing that might help with your diagnosis:

When I turn the takedown lever screw, it feels like there is spring resistance against it. When I release my nickel, the lever screw literally springs backward to 12 o’clock. Does that help at all with this problem?

If that wedge doesn’t freely move up/down (it’s on a spring) then there’s a hint. Something (such as the takedown bar part I posted) or a related part in the FCU is binding.

I’m running out of ideas. One more thing:

With the slide locked back, when you turn the takedown clockwise you should observe the recoil spring guide rod move slightly forward. Is that the case?

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Yes, the spring guide rod does move slightly forward when I turn the takedown lever clockwise … even if I can only turn it 45° (or to 1:30). Does that tell you anything?

Yes, since that wedge didn’t move at all, I actually thought it was the inside of the slide lock lever. There was not even the hint of a spring in there!

Not sure if this will help, but sounds like the issue you’re having…


Thank you for your help – I just looked at that Reddit article. I had already tried moving the barrel around “every which way but loose” … and loose too! … but it didn’t work.

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I’ve exhausted all the possibilities I can think of without the benefit of being eyes and hands-on myself.

I suppose your options are:

  1. Get it to a gunsmith and see if he can do something. The best and first option to consider
  2. Remove the pin and try to coax the slide and FCU out of the grip frame without removing the slide. I have never done this but it might be worth a try.
  3. Sacrifice the grip frame. They are cheap to replace.

The most important thing is to not screw up the FCU. Besides being expensive, it’s literally the gun. If you have to replace it, that’s going to involve an FFL. Basically it’s buying a new gun.

If the LGS gunsmith strikes out, consider sending it to Sig. They will likely charge you because you have modified the gun. Their repair service is good and very accommodating but they will not fix your aftermarket trigger. But they might replace it for the cost of parts and labor.


I really cannot express with enough gratitude & humility my thanks for all your help with this mess into which I got myself!

The first thing I was going to try is calling M*CARBO and seeing if they have any ideas helpful ideas that maybe we haven’t thought of yet?

Also, M*CARBO has an installation service for their trigger, so maybe if I send the pistol to them, they could fix it AND replace my now non-adjustable trigger at the same time.

Another option is my LGS that installed the original SigSauer flat trigger for me –– the one I ended up replacing with the Short Stroke Flat Trigger Upgrade. They’re called Gordy & Sons here in Houston, but the wait time with them could be quite awhile … like several months!

I think this is also a good idea. When I was searching the internet for help, I found another person who had this same problem, and while he was taking apart the FCU inside the frame, all of a sudden, he was able to turn the takedown lever! Of course, he ran into problems, like losing the striker safety spring when he removed the slide cap …

I like this idea the best!!! I already have another grip frame from Wilson Combat to which I was going to transfer the FCU in the first place.

If I end up going this route, what’s the best approach to getting the Sig grip frame off of the slide?

Thanks again!


I’d explore the other options before cutting but a jewelers saw is a useful tool for making precise cuts.

The only thing holding the slide on is the FCU. At the muzzle end, it sits in sort of a pocket molded into the grip frame. On the other it’s the pin. To get the FCU out you have to remove the pin and tilt the FCU up and out from the back. The muzzle end of the slide and the ‘pocket’ in the dust cover of the grip frame (ahead of the trigger guard) prevent that from happening. So, if all is lost and nobody can get that slide off you could cut the dust cover off. Carefully.

That should be your last resort. Make a mistake and the gun is toast. Once started there’s no going back. I’d describe this as a last ditch effort. Like locking your keys in your car. Call a locksmith vs. having no other alternative to breaking a window.

In Houston you should be able to find a gunsmith who isn’t operating with such a huge backlog. Most decent gun shops have a gunsmith on staff. Gordy seems like a fine establishment but focused on high end shotguns/hunting. Perhaps look for an authorized Sig dealer who will help you right away.

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I’ve already removed the pin and tilted the FCU up and out of the back earlier, when I tried that to see if it might loosen something up enough to let the screw turn more than 45º. Doing that much again is no problem but as you said, the FCU is still trapped at the muzzle end of the pistol.

I was looking for that post about the guy who also tried to coax the slide and FCU out of the grip frame without removing the slide. He got the takedown lever to turn after he had removed the slide cap. I couldn’t find it again but I did find this about another guy who had the same problem as me and ended up taking it to the gunsmith:

“I got the P365 back from the gunsmith who said the trigger bar popped off the engagement to the sear or words to that effect.”

Does that sound like what you were saying earlier about the slide lock / takedown safety bar either bent or binding?

Finally, If as a last resort I do end up cutting, which part of the grip frame - precisely - is the “dust cover” to which you’re referring? Thanks!!!


The circumstances are similar but if that’s what happened I dont think you would have been able to fire the pistol. You might want to take a look at an exploded drawing of the P365. Like this:

The trigger bar is on the opposite side of the FCU from the takedown lever and slide lock.

The ‘dust cover’ is identified as the grip frame area in front of the trigger guard. What covers the recoil spring, basically. Lopping off anything more than 4.5 cm from the muzzle end of the grip frame, you risk damaging the FCU. Cut too deep and you damage the recoil spring, guide or barrel.

Honestly, if you are not intuitively familiar with what’s going on inside the P365, you probably shouldn’t be cutting anything. Let a pro resolve this problem for you.


If he has to go that route himself, I’d suggest peck drilling and slowly removing grip module/frame pieces from the muzzle back to the guard.


There is a substantial amount of activity inside that little frame. Im surprised. Ive never really dug into striker sigs.

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Agree. You can safely lop 4 cm off the front of that grip frame without worrying about damaging the FCU. But you have to be careful not to cut the recoil spring or barrel. That’s why I suggested a jewelers saw vs. Dremel or something powered.

He only needs to cut off enough to allow the recoil spring/rod and barrel to tip up enough to free the slide and FCU.

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I haven’t been ignoring y’all … I got caught up in my 91-year-old mother’s tax returns. She has end-stage dementia & lung cancer. She also lives 270 miles away from me, so it’s been a difficult transition over the past 20 months. I’ve been making trips to and from every 4-6 weeks. Last August, I had to move her out of her apartment in her progressive care retirement center and down to the skilled nursing floor. I’ll get this P365 sorted out one way or another but right now, it’s first things first.


I’ll see your elderly mother and raise you by four years. :wink: My Mom is 95 and 1000 miles away. What you described is also big part of my life right now. Pretty much the same situation. It’s no small task to manage all that along with your own goings-on. Not to mention all the COVID madness for the past three years. I visit my mother every 6-8 weeks. She was diagnosed with ALZ and vascular dementia almost two years ago.

That Sig isn’t going anywhere. We do what we gotta do.


Another word to the wise.
If you ever want to disassemble the slide to put a different spring on the sticker assembly comes apart different than the regular slide that is shown on the Mcarbo video.

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I’d like to know when that change was made. When I installed the Trigger Spring Kit on my SAS, the striker assembly came apart exactly as it did in the M*CARBO video, at least I think it did. Since my slide is still stuck on the pistol, I can’t say that with absolute certainty. I bought the pistol in January 2020, so it was made in 2019 … or before!

If you really want to know call Sig and ask them.
I have no idea but i have both the regular slide and the SAS slide.
HELL who knows why ? But you can see there are some out here that have the different release technique.
Sig had run a deal so I bought one.
My last p365 spring kit was ordered on02/06/20. And I remember when I received it the striker removal procedure was different. I looked for videos and found that the technique for removal was in fact different. That was the reason I mention it.
There is another thread somewhere where I first posted it.

Maybe someone that has a more recent SAS can verify what they are like now.

I have since gotten rid of the MEPROLIGHT MEPRO FT BULLSHIT sight and am real happy with the Holisun 507Kx2.

In April 2020 I posted a video on this thread
M*CARBO Brotherhood

Just installed the P365 spring kit

Quick Tip Trick video was made 12/20/19

I remember calling and talking to a tech at Mcarbo to informed them of the different set up.
I guess they did not want to include it in their info. For those that are not savvy enough to search for the original posting here is the link

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Yeah, that Meprolight FT Bullseye sight was tough to get used to, especially at night when I’d probably need it the most. The thing is, I didn’t want to put a red-dot sight on top of the slide, as it defeated the whole purpose of the SAS for me. The way I solved it is using Sig’s LIMA365. The little button under the trigger guard takes some getting used to though. If it ends up in between the pads of my middle finger, then no green dot!

I’m really happy with it. After I rapidly acquire & fire the first shot, I can empty the rest of the magazine as fast as I can pull the trigger. The target below is 9 magazines: 3@3 yards, 3@5 yards, and 3@7 yards for a total of 108 rounds. The SAS that Sig now makes doesn’t even have a ported barrel, nor does it come with a 12-round mag … just two 10-rounders, one of which has an extension. If they had sales problems before, their new CA version’s gotta be a winner - LOL!!!