When using the offset reflex picatinny like many of us use, I recommend cutting a small shim or strip of metal to stick between the set screws and your plastic picatinny. It keeps the set screws from cutting into the nylon and spreads the load. My Burris Fastfire II side switch was JUST hitting the buffer tube when folding so I ground down the picatinny till flat to mount a higher one in its place. With the reflex sight dictating the extra space the folded carbine would take up when laying flat, I wanted all other accessories to sit within that profile.
All the QD mounts I tried were hanging out too far on the opposite side of the accessories so I took apart the front guard drilled a hole straight through for a T-nut to fit, and made the left side larger to fit a QD socket. The screw goes into the bottom of the socket, through the hard halves and into the T-nut on the right side. I did grind down the diameter of the T-nut so it looked better. With a QD mount on the bottom of the butt stock, it stays put under your arm when folded, and happens to be the right length of sling and in perfect position behind your forward hand when deployed…at least for me. I suppose the sling mount that far back would also be better for the accuracy of the barrel.
I had purchased a barrel mount flashlight clamp and found it fit just perfectly between the guard and the sight post and allowed me to keep a tighter profile. I did have to add a curled strip of aluminum to the smaller area of the barrel before putting the clamp on to even it out. Eventually I will make a longer pressure switch wire that will go back behind the laser mount for a cleaner look and feel. Originally I had the laser mounted to just the m-lok rail but didn’t realize until putting on a glove that it was just a little too short. The 1/2" riser added still keeps it below the height of the reflex sight but I have a .65 picatinny blank I will make my own tall m-lock rail since they don’t seem to exist, then it should be a good height and look cleaner. Flashlight is a Coast HX5 which has a bezel that can move forward or back to flood or spot. One could clamp the mount forcing the flashlight into perma-spot mode if they wanted. This model works with a lithium battery so pushes like 375 lumens. I drilled out the back cap and removed the switch to wire up my pressure switch. Those little plastic picatinny ladders seem to hold well enough for medium to light size wires to run behind but heavier gauge wires don’t hold on as well.
Lastly, I carved out a spot in the front picatinny for my pressure switch which allows it to fold and added a small mount plate to the left for the laser switch to sit on which is hard to see in the picture. A small piece of 1/4" abs sheet was cut down into a strip with angles to match the groove under the picatinny. I drilled and screwed into the plastic rail side. I found that shrink tube material is nice to use glued down as a pocket to slide your shrink tube switches into. It stays in place better with less profile and less sponginess as velcro does.
So maybe this will inspire some to try some wacked out mods or maybe not. Safety first in EVERYTHING. It’s funny because the folding aspect that makes this carbine awesome is the same thing that works against you when wanting to put things on. Not everything works for everyone and I can’t seem to be able to leave things well enough alone! <enter Tim “The Toolman” Taylor barking here>