New Collar Design On SUB2000

Not sure if anyone is still checking this thread. I have been attempting to remove the base plastic collar that holds the tube on for disassembly. Tried three attempts and all I’m doing is damaging the plastic. Been looking online and I cannot find a solution to get this thing off. Is it the glue they put on factory? I can’t get into this thing to install trigger . Would love some help. Thank you

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@Macbeth52 … The photo shows that you are in. Looks like the screws holding the grip Halves in place have not been removed. Pull those and pry carefully.

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@Macbeth52 Welcome to the Brotherhood.

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Thanks Dred just assumed that other ring needed to be removed. Gonna try again later and report back. Thanks in advance.

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There is only one ring. What you see with the grooves in it is part of the body. I can warn you of one thing i failed at…when pulling the body apart, there are thin metal ring fins at the front on the barrel lock nut. Separate the body equally front and back. I broke some metal fins by splitting the rear more than the front.

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Now, since this thread has been revived…

This is not for the timid, you can do at your own risk.

I bought both versions of the metal castle nuts and they are different sizes. I have the multimag body and the 2nd gen collar was a bit too small to hand turn over the plastic. Soooo…i went to sanding…turns out i was using the 1st gen collar for fitting and it fits like a glove now. After i relized I used the wrong one, the 2nd gen is too large.

Bottom line is, 2nd gen do a little sanding, 1st gen do more. Either will fit fine with a bit of alteration. If you should do this add tape to the buffer tube to keep from scratching it. I used 60 grit in my hand and just twisted back and forth until the collar fit using the wrench.

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Maybe a dumb question, but would an AR or other rifle’s castle nut fit instead? Seems to me the main weakness is the very small “threads” that don’t get a real bite on the plastic so the nut can’t truly be tightened. An AR castle nut doesn’t look too out of place, especially if it’s painted. I didn’t put loctite on mine when I installed all the upgrades and don’t want to, so I have to tighten it every time I shoot. @ChrisNelson maybe this is a potential MCarbo upgrade?

It irritates the hell out of me when I have to deal with all the shortcuts Keltec took just to save a few pennies. I’d bet total cost to do things like using a metal feed ramp, hammer bushing, and steel pins and screws would only be a few bucks additional per rifle. Their designers should read these forums to see where they made their mistakes so they could fix them all in the next gen except that would put a dent in MCarbo’s bottom line. :wink:

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The only way to fix it would to make new body halves as far as I can see. The AR buffer tube is a larger diameter and there is ready barely enough room for this the stock collar to fit.

After attempting all kinds of mods in the last year, I realize that the same reason why we love this carbine is the same reason why it’s so hard to make new options for it…it folds. That fact makes everything have to fit together like a puzzle if you want it to fold and keep as much the same footprint as possible.

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@phuzzy42

Performance Services LLC solves this issue with the S2K stock metal castle nut by selling one with two slots added and then a clamping single point sling mount, no more glue.

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@dave67 That’s fine and more power to them, but those two parts cost almost $100 with shipping and tax. An AR-15 castle nut costs about $5. All the MCarbo parts are an improvement and I know they have to make a profit, but most of them are fixes for what Keltec intentionally did wrong just to save a couple bucks. The Sub2K castle nut is another example of wrong - why should we even need to discuss fixes for it? Do you know of any other rifle that needs so many things fixed?

I’ve already put $300 in upgrade parts on a $400 gun. I’m not dumping $100 to fix yet another crappy Keltec design - I’ll stick a radiator hose clamp on it first, and to hell with how it looks. I’m about done with Keltec weapons - I could have bought much better quality for less. I like shooting the Sub2K but it’s like my wife - it’s pretty and goes fast, but it costs a hella LOT of money.

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I haven’t had a chance to measure anything, but I’m sure there’s some kind of nut out there with decent threads on it that a few handyman skills can make into a usable substitute for what Keltec came up with. When I get a chance, I’ll see what I can do with it.

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Sixfoot and Dred thank you again. So update and next and hopefully last problem. It’s been 5 days and 6 assemblies later I cannot get the seer to engage the trigger bar correctly. Hence the trigger will not drop hammer. It seems like the seer is just a little too far away from the trigger bar. Am I just missing something stupid ?

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Are you testing before the other half goes on or is it not working after full assembly?

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Yeah I’m testing before now , but first few times I did not because I didn’t realize the seer peg “appears” too short to properly reach the trigger bar

Driving me nuts because I feel like I am installing this exactly correct but the mcarbo parts are faulty ?no idea

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I’ve only had to crack it open a few times but everything is where it needs to be and springs are good. Unless something is up that we can’t see behind the trigger bar, idk

I remember if testing before the other half goes on, things aren’t perfect because of the spring tensions…that other half holds the other side of those pivot points.

Hopefully someone with more experience can see whats up, but those mcarbo videos are useful for step by step.

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Is the hammer bushing and pin seated all the way down? Seems like it’s not and causing the trigger bar to sit higher

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goto about 1:06:00 in the video

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San you were 100% correct, thank you. The aftermarket hammer bushing was just a little too tall or the factory port for it wasn’t bored out enough , either way that was casing the problem. I had to end up using factory bushing and everything works fine now.

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A standard AR-15 castle nut works just fine. The Sub2k still closes fine with room to spare, the castle nut makes its own threads, and it only cost $8. Here are some pix:

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A metal/aluminum version of the twist on plastic collar would be great. Just for the peace of mind i guess.

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