M*CARBO Brotherhood

LCP-II Ejector problem after Spring kit Installation

Hello all.

I’ve come across a situation that I hope the M*Carbo brothers can assist me with.

Not long ago I acquired a Ruger LCP-II 380 for CCW. At the range I was able to run through about 100 rds of Magtech (new not reloads) range ammo with no apparent issue. Since I wasn’t a big fan of the heavy trigger pull I opted for the M*Carbo spring-kit, SS Guide Rod and Take-down pin replacement parts. Everything available for the LCP-II.

I watched Chris’ video on the installation of the parts several times. Although a bit workish, the installation was easy and straight forward. Reassembly went smooth and all dry testing was perfect. As expected the trigger pull was much lighter.

At the range, however, things changed. It now has a problem ejecting spent cartridges. It now cycles two or three rounds and then it fails to eject the spent round before feeding the next round. Could this be, in any way, related to the new spring kit?

Obviously I can’t warrant using this for CCW. Any al all help is very appreciated.

BTW, this isn’t my first M*Carbo Kit installation. I also had the Ultimate Sub 2000 All-In-One kit installed and with the exception of the occasional stovepipe (which I attribute to crappy reload-ammo), it’s perfect.

Thank you.

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Welcome to the forum @Sasquach Good group of people here!

I don’t have a lcp, but by any chance did the ejector get tweaked in any way? You can check by inserting a spent shell and slowly watching as you rack the slide. Or did the extractor get miss aligned any way?

Dont think trigger spring stuff would cause ejection issues.


If the ejector was bent or misaligned it could cause this. Wear alone did the same with my Ruger LC9S. Problem solved when I replaced ejector and extractor.


LCP II or LCP 2? Yes, there is a difference. A major one.


Thanks for your reply Catfood. The firearm is relatively new. The ejector hasn’t been modified and appears unchanged since new. when I manually (slowly and rapidly) cycle a casing it pulls it out each time.

And I tend to agree, I wouldn’t think trigger spring stuff would make a difference either.

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Like I replied to Catfood, It’s a relatively new firearm. Shouldn’t worn out yet :slight_smile:

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Hi Wedge. I was careful to post what it says on the box. “LCP II 380”. Pardon my ignorance, if LCP 2 is NOT shorthand for the LCP II, then what is a LCP 2? Thanks.

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Apologies all. I should have stated the firearm was new.

*** UPDATE ***

I replaced the original springs and put the unit back to OE stock condition. At the range it did the same thing. I’m contacting Ruger support to see if they will address the issue.

Thanks everybody.

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Yes, you have the LCP II, which is the newest version with the Glock-like “trigger in trigger” safety, slide stop that actually locks back on empty, etc. The LCP 2 came out at least 10 years ago with the original styling, much harder double action type trigger, etc. They are not the same pistol at all even though a great many constantly still make that mistake.


And, I had ejection issues at first with mine, too. I went with a slightly heavier recoil spring set (11lb, stock is 9lb) from Wolff Gunsprings. I also installed the slicked up stainless steel guide rod from MCARBO and my issues went away. I installed both at the same time, so I’m not sure if I just needed one or the other. It will still “hiccup” every once in a great while, but I attribute that more to just being a tiny pistol with a light slide and me inducing a malfunction. My SIG P365 has pretty much replaced my LCP II for carry anyway.


Thanks for the education. :+1:

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Scott, I have the SS guide rod too. That’s just good common sense. I also polished up the feed ramp, …also common sense. I considered a myriad of other things as well. Among which was stiffening the ejector spring, re-contouring the ejector finger, reducing mag spring rate, increasing the recoil spring rate (as you did) etc. But, since the firearm is new I’m opting to go the, “send it back to Ruger” route.

Thanks everybody for all your help.

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Not a bad idea to let Ruger handle it, but I have a feeling they’ll test fire it and “find no issues”. I went through that BS plenty with Kel-Tec in my P3AT days before the first Ruger LCP even came out. I generally like a bit heavier recoil spring and, in this case, I felt the 9lb spring was too light and causing the extractor to be pulled/ripped off the rim of the case. Going to the 11lb spring seemed to fix that and it does shoot a bit softer. Oh well, it’s always good to have an extra set of recoil springs anyway. LOL


Another thing I think helped me was my shooting position. I don’t know what it is with these tiny pistols, but I really have to concentrate when shooting them. They are very, very prone to limp wristing since the slide is so light and has like zero mass. I have to make sure I lock my wrist, grip it tightly while pushing it forward and lean forward in a “nose over toes” stance. If I get all that right, mine never jams. But, if I get sloppy, especially after shooting a bunch of rounds through different pistols beforehand, I’ll still get the occasional malfunction.


It really looks like the extractor is not holding purchase on the spent casing. If it just happened after the kit installation I would say that the slide is moving too fast and you need the stock recoil spring. But because you put it back to factory and it still FTE it has got to be the extractor (good problem solving by the way). You may have some crud under the extractor or some in the spring well. If you can, pull the extractor clean it and reassemble. I love all my Ruger semi-autos (I have 8 in rimfire and centerfire) but everyone of them has an upgraded aftermarket extractor.


Spoken like a true engineer; a language I studied long in which to appreciate.

The recoil springs weren’t replaced. Just the recoil spring rod. The problem exists with both the MCarbo SS rod and the OE rod. The MCarbo rod probably isn’t the issue. Not being a gunsmith I wasn’t entirely sure if the interaction of the other M*Carbo parts would have bearing on the overall ejector action. Obviously the trigger return spring shouldn’t logically have any effect on spent shell extraction, but I’ve stranger things.

After I initially experienced FTE I removed the extractor mechanism, thoroughly cleaned and inspected the parts and reassembled. Crud wasn’t the issue.

It’s going back to Ruger. Thanks for your response.


I had the same failure to extract today, after replacing the trigger spring and firing pin spring. My first thought is that the spring change caused the malfunction, because the pistol has been flawless until now.

But, I could have been limp wristing or it could be that the extractor picked that moment to fail.

Did you figure out what caused your extraction problem?