Kel Tec Heavy Bolt


What is everyone’s experience with Kel Tec’s heavy weight bolt? I’m already running all of MCARBO’s parts and am wondering if it would be worth buying the bolt for any added recoil reduction. I honestly may buy regardless if it adds any function or not because I like the brass look compared to the stock bolt.


I’m interested in the heavy weight bolt too. From Keltec site, I see the heavy one weighs 14.4 oz, but I haven’t been able to find how much the standard one weighs. (I don’t own a sub 2000, yet, otherwise I’d just weigh it)


@Rekonn I believe the stock steel bolt weighs 12.8 ozs. from other posts I’ve read.


@jbd0913 The Kel-Tec Heavy Weight Bolt is 1.6oz. heavier than the stock bolt. I have the S2K in 40S&W with Heavy Weight Bolt and all MCARBO recoil reduction add-ons. I don’t know if any one item will help you feel less recoil (at least for the 40S&W) as much as a combination of items such as Heavy Weight Bolt, Recoiless Charging Handle (2.2oz. heavier than stock), Bolt Buffer, Muzzle Break and Butt Stock Pad. The brass bolt does look nicer than stock bolt.


Anybody have an issue with the heavy weight bolt not feeling as smooth as the original bolt? I installed it today and it feels like it’s dragging inside the bolt tube. The original was much smoother. It’s lubed up fine, but still feels like it’s dragging. Breakin period? Defective?

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My stock bolt did that initially and I determined it was where the cutout in the tube that forms the bolt hold open notch has a point that that it latches behind was slightly curled in and actually put a bit of a scratch in the bolt. I was able to get in behind it with a pointed stone on a Dremel tool and grind it back just a little. I don’t think this is uncommon…


Yea, that seems where the hang up is. I’ll see about trying that.

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I have all the Mcarbo upgrades including buffer pad and recoilless charging handle. I also have the kel tec heavy bolt. The combination of everything has greatly reduced the felt recoil on my 9mm sub2k. Highly recommend all of the above.


The hang up was actually at the very front of the cut out. I could tell by the scratch on the new bolt. I did what you said with the dremel. Didn’t need much work at all. Running super smooth now. Thanx for the input, Triggerhappy.


@Jperr Awesome - glad I could help! It’s been a while but I don’t think I really had the issue until the first time I tried to remove the bolt as I have kind of a zig - zag scratch from twisting it back and forth taking it out. I wondered if possibly some impact had caused a deformation or if it was a manufacturing gremlin. A full tune up on a new Sub2k could include a de-burr of the interior of the tube it seems and no surprise a retrofit bolt might have some small fitment variation. Pulling a 12ga. boresnake through it as some do to clean it would probably reveal any snags. Good to hear your runnin smooth now.:+1:


Recoil mitigation. Step 1 - Recoil buffer “Red lifesaver” ($10) so I can still lock the bolt back, unlike the Tacticool buffer. Recoilless Charging Handle ($30), both seemed cost effective and easy. After testing, not enough. Step 2 – Muzzle Brake ($65) and Heavy Bolt ($45) (forum confirmed Sub2K still cycles reliably with RCH & Heavy bolt) tested, very nice. But when folded, ends look uneven and wonky. Step 3 - Time for a bolt tube cover ($15) and recoil pad ($25). ATI is not the choice for me as I have heard too many bad things about it splitting from repeated ON/OFF. Also not a fan of the way it looks. Adapting for an AR-15 butt stock requires a bit too much custom armorer effort for this guy. I chose the easy and awesome Adaptive Tactical EX Performance Recoil pad. Looks great feels even better. To mount, drill a small pilot hole and use (2) #8 ½” wood screws.
Now she feels like a 22LR. Follow up shots are quicker and more accurate. My groups are much improved as well.



Somewhere in the manual that is not read, KT strongly advises against releasing the bolt on a folded Sub 2000. That wrinkle is the reason for that advisement.

The charging handle stem slams the leading edge of the charging slot if the chamber isn’t there to stop the bolt. So there are a bunch of us with a wrinkle on that leading edge. KT doesn’t deliver them that way but stuff eventually happens and the charging handle is a good bit harder than the bolt tube.


I’ve never done that. I think the problem is, unfortunately, that the guns are just junk from the factory. Replacement of almost every part bears that out, in my opinion. I still love em tho because of the potential and utility. Yes, I could buy a 9mm AR carbine for the money I’m putting into this, but they just don’t get as small. And that’s what makes them super cool. But I would rather pay more up front for more quality parts.


But I can see how that would happen.

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I feel you there. I’ve never done it deliberately but I’ve knocked it off the catch accidentally. And, unless you bought direct from the factory - there is no telling how it was abused by handlers on its journey home to you.

With the chamber displaced by folding - I personally can’t imagine a design that would stop the bolt but also accomodate proper battery when ready to fire. If nothing stopped the bolt, it would become a projectile if accidentally released. With my lifetime warranty, I wonder how long KT could afford to replace bolts launched haphazardly onto concrete surfaces.

I prefer to consider KT’s offering as ingenious and underpriced. I view it as FAR FROM “junk.”


Shortly after I bought the MC oversize charging knob they came out with the heavy one. Instead of buying a new one I bought some tiny split shot fishing weights, and crammed them into the handle. I then epoxied into place.


@Dred Hey I read my owners manual… a little bit… a long time a go… lol Actually I did have it out a whole back for something else but I don’t recall seeing that about the tube. I don’t think I ever folded it with the bolt locked back, for some reason I think I knocked it into something while it was open ??? Who knows lol Thanks for the KT reference on that, good to know. :+1:


This is exactly how I see the Sub2k. Not junk, but some aspects of it are “airsoft gun quality” I would say. At a $400 price point you realistically shouldn’t have great expectations but a $600 - $700 upgraded version might be appreciated by some but then along came MCARBO lol.


I’m guessing “junk” was to strong a word. I understand that to keep the price point what it is, the parts just aren’t of the best quality. And thank God for Mcarbo. But I should have just waited for the M series to come out, because that’s kind of what I’m doing piece meal. Like I said, I like the gun, I really do. I’m just going to like it more when it’s done up right.


I was thinking the rumored “new sub release” would be something different enough to make me want to wait a while to buy it. With this in mind I bought my first sub200g2.
Now that the new sub is just all added marcabo, I could have waited, although I think putting in and on all the new guts and such will be interesting and useful experience.
The price of the M version and the price of the MCARBO flip up right will tell the tale of savings.
Putting it all in and on myself will give me great insight into the workings of my gun and the self satisfaction of having completed the work myself. That is worth more to me than the $40(plus shipping) to have it done for me by keltec.