Hey everyone, hoping to get some ideas here. I am installing the trigger reduction kit on my CPX2. The first part went great. The second part requires me to remove the frame pins by using a punch and hammer. These things just won’t budge. Two hours I have been hammering on this thing. I broke my 1/16 punch already. I don’t want to go too hard, it’s a plastic frame. Here’s a pic of what I got so far. I’ve dropped a little oil in there, heated it with a hair dryer. Neither worked. I’m out of ideas, any help would be greatly appreciated.
MCARBO has a video on YouTube for SCCY CPX2 Trigger Spring Kit and it shows Chris using a 3/32 punch and tapping them out from left to right, that might make a difference.
Thanks for the response @dave67 . Yes I was following his video and he pops them out fairly easily. I watched 5 or 6 other videos and they all pop out the same, fairly easily. It leads me to believe maybe they are difficult the first time then are easier to remove afterwards. I even tried pounding what is sticking out back in and go out the other side but it now is just stuck. I have some silicone I sprayed in there, going to let it soak overnight then whack away in the morning. Thanks again.
Do other videos show pins tapped out from left to right like Chris’s or do any videos show right to left like your picture? That might be the difference.
@DaveyJames207 Watched a video on YouTube by Galloway Precision where he says some of the newer frame pins are knurled and you have to drive them out from the opposite direction. They had a problem with loose pins on earlier models.
@Don68 Thank you, that may be what’s happening here. I’m going to try and drive it out the other side after I let that oil soak in.
It may still be difficult.
First put a slave pin to be sure frame is lined up.
Second use large hammer. Lol
I know but seriously you may have to give a good whack or two.
If you pins work loose when firing use a dab of black silicone adhesive.
When all else fails, time to break out the BFH. If it doesn’t work, at least you’ve got the tool to make something pay…@dave67 knows what I’m a talkin’ 'bout…
I’ve had 2 issues with the frame pins. First, I found out why SCCY says not to use +P or +P+ ammo. After “testing” with about 40 rounds of 9BPLE +P+ not only did the rear frame pin start to walk out, the front pin sheared at the inside edge of the frame on both sides.
Cue the “oversize” replacement pins from SCCY. They came coated in a black polymer, unevenly applied. I drove the first one in as far as I could (including the BFH) before deciding I needed to take the coating down to a thickness that would be humanly possible to work with. I briefly thought about getting a small hydraulic press, but decided that would be overkill. I finally got it sanded down to where the pin would drive completely into place without herculean effort. I’ve since had the gun apart several times and put another 200 rounds of standard pressure ammo through it without any further problems.
I’ve found the Apex Armorer’s Block a huge help to hold and stabilize the frame when I"m working on it.
Thank you everyone for taking time out of your day to respond. I’m making slow progress, I’ll hammer for an hour or so then take a break. I’m not giving up!
Seriously if your using small gunsmith hammer your wasting your time. Use regular framing hammer. I have done two spring kits and one was just like what your talking about. The only way I got it out was to use heavier blow on your drift punch. I think it’s the extra coating they may have put on pin. Once the movement stops it seems glued in. You just have to get the roll pin.moving again.
I looked at it this way. Sccy has lifetime unlimited warranty. They will replace it if you bugger it up.
Get your frame level and supported and whack the heck out of drift punch.
@Silverback I’m using the ol 3 lb hammah
Dam!!! Well send it to sccy. You may want to bash the hell out of it. It should have driven the roll pin out.hmmmmm. that’s strange
I had to search for exploding sledge hammer that’s some barnyard silly sheet right there.
So have these stubborn pins been liberated???
@Festus No, not yet. I was busy yesterday and today so no hammering. Seriously tho, a 3 lb hammer should be able to pop those out with minimal issues. I may send it to SCCY and have them pop them out.
Personally I would back out the one end that is sticking out Rather than trying to force it further though… YMMV
That doesn’t look right at all. Something is holding it, Not familiar with that gun at all but … did you expand the end with the wrong size roll pin punch?
Thinking MORE… is the punch you are using going INSIDE the roll pin, Are you actually using roll pin punches or regular punch and are you hitting the edge of the roll pin or are you hitting the edge of the metal frame inside? You MUST have the right size to drive the pin though and it has to be bigger than the hole in roll pin and smaller than the hole in the internal frame .
It needs to fit the roll pin. When you said you broke your 1/16th inch punch… Tha t is NOT a 1/16 th in pin… if your punch is INSIDE the roll pin hole. the pin cannot contract and THAT is why it wont go though fact is most punches taper bigger so you are making a WEDGE.
Alright, so I got the pins out and completed the rest of the install. I sanded the pins down a bit, they definitely were the newer pins and had some sort of coating on them. They went in smoothly with 4 taps of the 3 lb-er. The trigger pull feels much lighter, I would guess at around 5 lbs. Thank you again everyone that took time to respond, laugh with and at me. Great experience.