M*CARBO Brotherhood

Gun Cleaning Tips


#72

You didn’t list either one of the ones I use. Hornady One Shot was my got to cleaner/dry lube but within the last year I have started using Amsoil synthetic cleaner/protectant and their synthetic gun oil. After I started using the Amsoil products the firearm has less fouling and subsiquint cleanings seam to go much quicker. Does anyone else have any experience with the Amsoil product?


#73

Recently ordered two cans of Ballistol, I really like this CLP and it’s carcinogen free. Cleaned up my G43’s and G19 perfectly.


#74

Ever use a toothbrush. I mean for cleaning a gun. Or Q-tips, CLP.


#75

It will make cleaning a lot easier in the future. Hikcuck Fuddy Five was right about it almost treating metal like cast iron so nothing sticks to it. Ballistol leaves the metal parts very slick after being wiped off.


#76

Yes, I have gun specific toothbrush type brushes. Just got a set of polymer dental picks, too, to get at the really tight spots without scratching anything.


#77

Yep, about an hour ago. They work great.


#78

Indeed Hicok 45 endorses Ballistol! Some of his videos are funny.


#79

He was already on notice with me over the “guns for me, not for thee” attitude on full auto stuff and lost me completely when he backed the bumpstock ban. I don’t own one and probably never will, but he pissed me off that much. That’s why I now call him HikCUCK FUDDy Five. :rofl:


#80

SO @wedge if you have all those cleaning brushes what makes it si hard to clean the feed ramp?
Just use any ol’ 12ga. brush on a rod with extra patches. it is a 5 minute clean job.
If you want to go inside the grip buy a PSM spit collar and a sling mount. the grip take down can be done in seconds with a hex key wrench. ANd put back together the same way.
FOr all the newbies here go up in right hand corner and search by key word.


#81

It’s not that hard. It’s just at a weird angle to get at with the brush I use. It’s like the carbon fouling actually sticks to the feed ramp even though I shined it up nice and proper before installing it. It’s really no big deal. I still haven’t had one single malfunction with my S2K.

I already have the MCARBO single point sling mount and cross-pins/screws on mine. The MCARBO screws are hex head. :+1:

I’m not detail stripping mine every time for just a cleaning. I’ll do that when I start having malfunctions.


#82

rub some ballistol on it after you clean it and the carbon will not stick as bad. Bend the shaft ( do not worry it is not a medical problem) of a Q-tip soaked in CLP go in through the ejection port.


#83

image
what does that refer to I am talking about Split castle nut


#84

I know what it is and I don’t need/want it. My stock collar stays put and is fine. Having the MCARBO armorer’s wrench makes it super easy to remove.

And, what it referred to is the sling mount you mentioned. I don’t need that, either, since I already have the MCARBO one.


#85

http://www.performanceservicesmachining.com/kel-tec-sub-2000-products/kel-tec-sub-2000-generation-2-modified-castle-nut/


#86

So use the mcarbo sling with the PSM castle nut.
Easy as pie.


#87

And, yet again, I don’t need it.


#88

you say you have a lot of brushes for cleaning but none of them are handy to clean the feed ramp.
Have you tried to heat up the handles to custom bend them ?


#89

No, but that’s not a bad idea. I think I’ll be okay with the new polymer picks I just got. I haven’t tried them on the S2K yet.


#90

I have a heat gun that I use in the work I do. I have have the ability with it to apply heat to very amall ares, have used it then have a vessel of water handy to cool the area so it retains it’s shape after bending.


#91

I have a 1500W heat gun that gets to 1000+ degF on high.