If you have a Favorite cleaning method please share it here.
OK, I really enjoy my SUB-2000 but it’s the dirtiest gun I’ve ever fired! Carbon gets into every nook and cranny. I’ve figured out how to use a 12 gauge shotgun mop, drenched in solvent, to clean the bolt tube and I’ve learned to soak and scrub the bolt in a bath of solvent but I’m baffled by how to access and clean the trigger area. I am sure it is filthy after the 1500 or so rounds I’ve run through it. Any ideas?
I had the same concerns with the trigger group. Obviously, that’s not something anyone is going to clean on a regular basis. I just blow it out with compressed air from a can like you’d use to clean a keyboard. I have a lot of rounds through mine, too, and never had any problems at all. I do wonder, though, if grit mixing with the grease we put on the sear engagement area will act as a lapping compound over very extended use.
As for me, I hate cleaning the area of the bolt tube right behind the hinge fold where the feed ramp is. I haven’t figured out a good way to get in there and clean the feed ramp and the side of the tube opposite the ejection port. I’ve tried a pull through bore snake type 12ga shotgun cleaning thing and it didn’t work very well. It got hung up and tore the crap out of it.
I’ll try the compressed but I, too, wonder about the accumulation of gunk in areas where I can’t reach… I use cotton rags dipped in solvent to scrub the bolt tube right behind the hinge fold. Tedious.
Yeah, it’s not the easiest rifle to clean. Maybe the new Gen 3 will be a design where we can easily separate the upper from the lower. LOL
But, honestly, I don’t consider this simple blowback rifle to be all that “needy” when it comes to cleaning. I just clean the barrel well, wipe off the bolt and re-oil it and clean everything else I can reach. I haven’t one single malfunction of any type over many, many rounds. I don’t think the rifle cares if there’s gunk in the areas we can’t reach. Modern powder and primer residue isn’t corrosive anyway. Anything that would potentially build up into the area of moving parts (I find that hard to believe, especially with using compressed air) would just get knocked out of the way in the same way an AR is “self-cleaning” when it comes to bolt lug carbon buildup.
Brk Cleaner and Canned air works well, and does not hurt the Plastic’
I found that a 20 gauge bore snake works pretty good for cleaning out the bolt tube.
Call me old fashioned: I spent a year in the infantry in Vietnam followed by 9 1/2 months in an armored cavalry troop. Given the problems experienced then with the M-16, we were quite zealous cleaning all our firearms and still experienced problems with the M-16. To this day the military has problems with its modern descendants. Look at modern videos of GIs in Afghanistan and Iraq; out of action they are constantly cleaning their M-4s. I won’t own an AR platform.
Yes, powders change but I’ve come to appreciate a clean weapon. I extract very significant carbon residue even after only a few rounds through my SUB-2000. In my book, a clean gun is a happy gun; that’s why I requested cleaning tips.
I posted this earlier on the FB page, but I actually drove to Kel-Tec to have my recalled barrel replaced and asked the tech about the best way to clean the gun. The guy ran back to his bench and brought out a can of ELECTRICAL DEGREASER (pressurized spray bottle). He said it is safe on plastics and dries almost instantly. He then uses an air pressure hose to blow all the crap out. Can get it at your local hardware store. Picked up a can at Rural King for $5.
I wonder if that’s the same as the spray type electronics contact cleaner stuff. I already have some of that.
Cobbler00 - yup; a clean weapon is a good weapon. I clean anything I shoot immediately after the range visit. I don’t like putting weapons back into the safe that haven’t had a great cleaning and inspection before saying good night. Old habit or OCD; doesn’t matter, gotta do it. . . .
Yes, I believe it is. The bottle I purchased says Electrical Degreaser but it also shows image of electrical contacts.
Mark D. Carey
For people who shoot a lot, I’d say no. I only get out once every two months or so, so everything gets a good cleaning after every range session. But, if I were shooting multiple times a week or a month? Nope. Unless it’s an absolute self defense firearm, it would get cleaned once every month or if it manfunctions first. I would periodically add some lube, though.
I won’t speak against your experience, but my ARs have been some of the most reliable platforms I’ve ever owned and shot. A lot more than powder has changed since Vietnam. There’s bullet weight, barrel twist rate, better materials, machining, etc And, if anything, guys nowadays in the field are probably cleaning out of boredom as much as anything else. Also, who wouldn’t want a cleaned/lubed weapon of ANY kind in actual combat? Do it during the down time. It’s also a lot more sandy and gritty in the middle east. Honestly, if the platform was THAT bad, it would have been replaced long ago.
I do the same with a handgun and shotgun. But, the SUB2000 started leaning in a corner after being shot well more than enough to realize it’s extremely reliable and accurate. I’d do better with it in my house than with a handgun because, well… I suck shooting handguns.
I shoot at the range twice a week using the SUB-2000, a Ruger mini-14, a Marlin 60 .22 cal. rifle and a variety of handguns, probably 20,000 rounds annually (half .22 cal.). Cleaning them thoroughly after every outing is mind / muscle memory after all years.
Once I had mySub2000 and all the inners from MCARBO I set about to making the gun run as smooth as possible.
Having only ever touched a Sub2K once before I received my gun I knew the bolt and recoil bolt felt pretty stiff.
Before disassembling mine before the “operation” I cycled the recharge handle several times, yep it felt a little rough. I knew there was work to do.
Watching the videos that are well done I tackled the job. The video on the feed ramp clued me into knowing I was going to save some time and broke out the “tool” the Dremel armed with a polishing felt and FLITZ.
Using the Dremel cut the time for polishing the feed ramp down to about 5 minutes. The trigger kit was the next goal. Taking it apart I also polished the surfaces of the hammer on both sides and along the top where the bolt slides along it to cock it. also I polished the sear trigger bar and sear hammer mating surfaces. I have been doing this kind of stuff for about 50 years so I know you do not want to get too aggressive and using the FLITZ and a polishing felt works pretty well.
to reduce drag I normally look for ant place that are critical points… The bolt and recharge rod account for 25% of the weight of the gun and are by no means smooth:“out of the box”. The initial cycling before disassembly left wear point so I knew where some work had to be done.
The surfaces where the bolt rides along the face and front of the hammer and the inside of the charging tube
were polished (see picture). polishing the rib that the hammer slides on was rough. Doing nothing to change ant dimensions FLITZ to rescue. Also notice the ends of the charging rod. once polishing was completed I rubber all surfaces of the bolt/charging rod with TETRA GREASE to make it slick. Then CLP’ed it for the final clean
Those look cool. Where’d you get them?