@blowback There is no reason to remove the ATI butt stock pad. You can remove the butt stock with out taking the ATI pad off. It is soft which helps more with felt recoil but because it’s soft I hear it can split if you take it off and put it on a lot. Mine is fine and I just leave it on. It is molded around the plastic butt stock and just held in place by it’s form and not screwed on.
i added the magpul foregrip.
I just got the recoil buffer and screw replacement package
On to my next upgrade which will be the offset rail for my red dot sight…
Looking For Sub2k Buttstock Pad Mod
Guys I had to make 1 modification to the cantilever mount. After 2 visits to the range I found that the 1/4 inch rise rail was thin enough to vibrate and the red dot would vertically blur from the vibration of recoil. That made rapid 3 shots in 2 seconds tuff. I added a bumper to the bottom of the rail. Tall enough to just barely have enough tension via contact to not bounce or vibrate, yet not angle the rail or change my zero. So the 2X optic where I want it and Now no vibrations and rock solid stable dot. Perfect!
You have the bumper mounted into the rail’s screw hole, correct? Looks stable
Actually because it is a cantilever riser, there wasn’t a screw hole. Gorilla brand super glue. Works perfectly. Very stable. Brings the optic closer where I like it and no vibration to blur the red dot anymore. Because the riser is 1/4" high the flip down sight sits perfect for cowitnessing.
Great information, read every word. Recently bought my first Kel-Tec and your information gives me a lot to consider for making my rifle more enjoyable.
Just wanted to thank you for the recoil pad recommendation.
Been thinking about this for a while and your posts and pictures were the catalyst. The gun is just easier to shoot now. What I did not expect was having a better sight picture on the iron sights after installing the pad. Part of that is the increased length of pull gives me a slightly better angle on the sights, part is, as the pad is a little larger, it’s easier to pull it higher into your shoulder. This gun is set up with a quick release mount and RDS but the option to use iron sights is nice.
2 things. I am now using the dust cover. I like it. Just be careful not to forget it is there because when you unfold, it will pop out and fly across the range. Second, I have switched back to the MAGPUL XTM hand stop kit. It’s just better. I have been asked to show the whole kit together in the 2 pistol case, so here you go… In another thread the discussion was made about co-witness. So in the 2nd pic, the folding rear site is up just for co-witness sake. Normally I leave the folding rear sight down so it does not obstruct open/close of the rear lens cover.
I have been asked about the steps for mounting the Adaptive Tactical recoil pad. To put everything in one place, here you go. It was a very minimal modification. You need (2) #8 1/2 inch wood screws. Remove the screws provided on the Adaptive tactical recoil pad. Put one of the sharp #8-1/2" wood screws in the hole. Place the pad against the stock where you would like it. Put a little scratch mark on the stock using the screw tip. Then remove. Put the drill bit (I think I used 3/32) against the screw and put a piece of masking tape on the drill bit as a depth mark so you will not drill deeper than the screw length. Drill a small hole in the direct center of the spine of the stock at the height of the small scratch. Remove any burrs from the hole after drilling. Screw in the first screw HALFWAY by hand. Put the screw in the 2nd hold and repeat scratch for the proper position of the 2nd hole. Rotate the pad out of the way. Drill the 2nd hole in the center of the stock spine. Clear burrs. Put in 2nd screw in all the way by hand as not to over torque and strip the plastic in the hole. Finish tightening the first screw. DONE! The beauty of it is if I ever decide to remove it there will only be 2 very small unnoticeable holes in the very end of the stock where it rests on my shoulder and would be covered by any other solution I should I find something better. (Unlikely!)
Thanks Gatekeeper! I appreciate the advice & write-up. I just ordered my Adaptive Tactical Performance Recoil pad and I got free shipping on it!
I’m not going back to the ATI since mine just cracked & fell apart. I think the Adaptive looks better anyway.
I realize I have left off a major step in making your S2K the perfect PCC. Sighting in and Ammunition choice.
1.) First a quick discussion about ammunition. Many people have differing opinions on what is the best make or the best weight. Even whether hollow points are better with or without the plastic filler. That is a discussion for another thread. What IS important is the bullet you practice with at the range should be the same ballistic characteristics as what you load for carry and defense. All to often I have seen people buy cheapo big box bulk ammo at the range, then load an expensive high quality round for carry. So what ever you pick to practice and carry, one does NOT want them to have completely different weight and ballistic characteristics.
2.) Sighting in. The ballistics shown on the chart https://www.mcarbo.com/9mm-trajectory-chart-vs-40-s-w-trajectory-chart.aspx I have found to be consistent with my results. For ease, at the range I sight in POI 3/4" high over my red dot @ 25yards. This makes my POI 3/4" low at 50 yards. Also my dot is a 3MOA which is 3/4" big at 25 yards. You should see the POI exactly 1 dot high over your dot at 25 yards. For closer ranges I have found that the ascending zero is roughly at 6 yards and the descending zero is roughly 37 yards. But those distances are difficult distances to actually zero to. The slightest bit off at a 6 yard ascending zero makes a huge variation in down range POI. Who is going to measure out somewhere around 37 yards hoping to get “split the difference” results for 25 and 50 yards.
This doesn’t mean this is the best for you. But for ME, windage aside, I can aim at anything within 50 yards and know I will hit within an inch above or below my dot.