M*CARBO Brotherhood

First Range Test, Some Q's

Really impressed with the accuracy! Fun to shoot, recoil isn’t bad but I can see how a padded piece for the tube will help the bit of recoil I feel against my jaw.

Had a handful of FTEs. I was shooting off a bench and believe I wasn’t snugging up the butt stock sufficiently to allow the blowback to cycle properly. Does that make sense / legit reason? Once I snugged the butt firmly into my shoulder I didn’t have any issues after that.

I take that back, did have one out of my Korean 33 round mag, towards the last round, but with a Glock mag all was well. I’ll see if I can get the more robust SGM springs for the Korean mags.

I had to move the front sight past middle to shoot centered, bugs me a bit, but it works. Also, I noticed the front sight can be moved by hand against some spring tension, but it comes back to where it was. Is that normal or may that front screw they say not to mess with when adjusting sights be loose?

All in all a good first run, ran 250 rounds though it. Fun & accurate and a couple things to research with the help of the Brotherhood!



I have not experienced a limp hold 'causing a FTE on a s2k. And I’d be slow to attribute a FTE to a mag. Hopefully it was something unique to those specific rounds.

Front sight spring is working as designed.


@PattonWasRight Were you using the fun stick as a monopod resting on the bench? The bouncing up and down may have caused your FTE. Glad you liked your sub.

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I use only Glock mags and haven’t had any FTE’s.

Check the alignment of your front sight. I had to move the sight post to the left to laser bore sight it then I realized the front sight was not perpendicular as it came from the factory. It’s an easy fix, back off the lock nut, then tap the sight into alignment with the plastic side of an armorers hammer. Welcome to the S2K obsessed brotherhood. LOL


Dred … Have since seen on a Kel Tec forum, from the moderator, that it is advised to press the buttstock in firmly, that the gun, especially when new, needs that foundation to cycle fully with direct blowback … it’s a bit susceptible otherwise. Thanks for confirming the front sight!


Hmm … that’s true, I was resting on the extended mag. That can be an issue-maker I agree. Did use some regular mags, but now that I type this, was also resting on the mag. So, it’s either that or not pressing into the shoulder pocket, or a combo of both. Next range visit I’ll be mindful of both.

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Thanks for the welcome, and I’ll check that tonight. When you say “perpendicular” do you mean square / 90 degrees to the barrel or that it is not at the centerline of the barrel?

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Don Vintage '68 … I really see what you’re saying about contact with that unique ejector “blade.”

I just pushed in the mags and yep, the top of the mag comes up against the ejector when applying upward pressure on the mag. I’d bet that’s been the cause of the FTEs


The front sight should be perpendicular to the top Picatinny rail on the fore-end. The front sight is threaded, screwed onto the barrel. If not perpendicular to the top rail, the sight post will not be in the middle of the sight when sighted in.


So yeah, this is disappointing, just field stripped to clean and …

The collar on the recoil tube/stock is completely loose, and the thread protector had about 2 threads to go before it would have fallen off

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Googling a bit, a loose castle nut is part of the Sub 2000 charm. Okay, I can embrace that if I have to.

I’m thinking if I wrap two layers of electrical tap around the thing, then “thread” on the castle nut that may hold it … the tape will stick to gun and the threads will bite into the tape. Electrical tape can handle some heat.

Anybody try that?

Seems like even the super goo Kel Tec uses doesn’t do the job with any real use of the gun

Looking for something that will hold decently / mostly yet not be a hassle to undo should I start doing internal upgrades.

@PattonWasRight If you don’t like the 380 adhesive and want to use tape try friction tape. It’s cloth tape impregnated with a rubber glue. Used on baseball bats and other sporting goods.


Yeah, good thought. Not sure about it handling heat tho. Now that I say that, does the buffer tube get hot, or just warm?

@PattonWasRight It’s also used for electrical connections. the sub’s grip halves do not get hot.

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Thanks Don, fresh back from a range visit this pm

Didn’t have any friction tape handy so used electrical tape. It worked, didn’t take a walk after 100 rounds.

Really fun shooting this thing … can just hammer away at a fast pace and put accurate rounds on target, can’t wait to do some 2 gun competitions with this!

Interestingly, I had 0 issues reliability wise … the “after” was simply that I pressed it firmly back into my shoulder. Even the Korean fun sticks I was sure had weak springs functioned perfectly. I do believe with the direct blowback, at least until that recoil spring has been exercised with a couple hundred rounds, you can absolutely “limp shoulder” this thing and induce FTEs

Fun stuff.

It’s going to sit still awhile 'cause I get to have a hip replacement this next week, so it may be awhile before I get to shoot it in competition, but glad I’ve got it all sorted now


U’re right Scooter, hard to tell without close observation, but the front sight is indeed not timed with the barrel’s centerline. Not off by a ton, maybe 2 degrees. I need to remove the front sight barrel night, heat up the sight to loosen up the loctite, and reposition it, correct?

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Question … the rear of the ejection port is taking a beating, lots of nicks in it from the ejected cases, presumably the mouth of the case. Normal, or ??

@PattonWasRight Glad everything worked OK. Good luck on your surgery next week.:+1::man_health_worker:

use eiter Loctite “black Max” 380 or the Vibra -tite VC 3. I notched the coller on my gen 1, and since i used the sling clamp to bite it, Im trying the VC 3…

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I hear ya, but the idea of scraping and cleaning out the glue each time for reassembly doesn’t exactly tickle me the right way