It’s not that. You just run your gear hard and self-incriminate by posting videos.
Ah, yet another difference between Sailors and Marines. Tact.
and here all along I thought the main difference was webbed feet…
Well I’ve gotta say this is what I love most about the forum! I quickly read through a lot of the post above and I can definitely tell I’m long overdue on an update here. I do apologize for all this back-and-forth but we’ve definitely made a better product in the process. We’re all really excited about it I can’t wait to share it with you guys!
To answer the price question I’d like us to be at 100 bucks or less but that is still to be determined based upon machine time and material selection. If we make the entire thing out of aluminum I guarantee were going to be under 100 bucks. The second prototype will be done this week! That will allow us to test the most recent adjustments to ensure all the desired functionality is there. We’re also going to send a few off to get plated so that we can test the durability of the mount in 6061 aluminum and hardcoat anodizing.
That’s when you guys come into play and get to beat the crap out of these prototypes that are hard coat anodized. If they hold up and maintain zero then we are 100% go full throttle into production and will have these as fast as we can make them. Which is generally about 12 weeks to include the Plating lead time as well.
Here’s a pic of the drawing for the Optic Mount that were currently producing. Here’s a few machined Parts from that drawing. Notice the new thumb lever on the release. Let me know if you guys have any questions?
What other materials were you considering?
With aliminum i think we might have a stripped screw problem. Isnt that the problem with the current factory pins? (Correct me if im wrong please)
Yes, that can easily happen with aluminum hardware and using steel screws. But, this application is different. The steel screws (bolts) will go all the way through the optic mount and handguard then thread into steel nuts on the other side, which is the same setup as stock right now. They won’t be threading directly into aluminum.
Bare aluminum is very soft and a lot of these pictures have shown bare aluminum parts. They are not done yet. These parts will be hard coat anodized which gives it serious durability and strength. Some of the SUB-2000 parts you guys have from us are 6061 aluminum and hardcoat anodized like the triggers and trigger guard. We’re pretty confident an all aluminum mount with hardcoat anodizing will be perfect given the light weight aluminum and extra durability that comes with the hardcoat anodizing. If the testing reveals otherwise then we’re going to go with some kind of carbon steel. Only problem with carbon steel is it’s much heavier than aluminum. Really don’t want us to have a heavy bulky optic mount.
And, the steel hanguard screws/bolts won’t even be threading into them anyway if the mount is going to be using the same arrangement as the current stock one with nuts on the backside.
@ChrisNelson , you ever think of going with a tougher alloy, 7075 grade aluminum? I went to it for motorcycle parts, takes a lot more abuse than the 6061… cuts a lot easier/cleaner on the Mill/lathe as well
I second this. I work with 6061 daily building boats. While tough 7075 would be a better choice I believe.
6061 has less zinc but they probably chose this to keep the cost down for manufacturing and for retail. Which I get. Trying to find that medium between strength and affordability.
@Flogrown Im kinda rough on things Kenny now if you got, say for a 12" square plate, prices are as follows, these are bit prices, so a lil more to cut::
6061/T651 .250 thick 12"X12" $34.97
7075/T6 .250 thick 12"X12" $61.16
7075/T7351 .250 thick 12"X12" $148.95 (aerospace grade toughest/strongest)
this place is more expensive, be cheaper to buy in bulk per sheet, at the correct thickness
I just used 12"X12"X .250 as a example.
I paid right at 250 for a H&K STANAG CLAWLOC scope mount, because I broke 2 Bsquare clamp mounts,(bout 110 apiece) and 1 ARMS clawloc mount $125. I would rather pay once for a hard as nails product, than have to replace a item every 250 or so rounds…
now if you really want to go Flat out Hardcore,
12"X12" .250 thick Grade 2 Titanium $358.54 ooooooo baby…
I could see a Grade 2 Titanium Limited edition Hardcore Mount from Mcarbo…
just rolls off the tongue it does…
@GOBLIN Buck very nice write up. I am no expert in the field and I know you have more experience working with the stuff. When it comes down to it you want the peace of mind knowing your equipment will not fail. So intead of making it good enough make it bad ass
Gotta agree with Buck on this one…game guns get abused and run hard, have had problems with softer 6061 aluminum parts before. THey dent, pick up dings, and deep gouges when dumped in the barrel and dropped on the tables.
I Would pay for durability.
I do a lot of older case repairs on indian,harley , norton arial ect, stripped out bolts in the castings cracks, broken windage trays and than ilk, ive got SS inserts, not the spring type helicoils but actual 2 drive pin locking inserts from 8/32 all the way up to 1"8, as well as metric the same range, (but i have no witworth ) and even in a loose rough sand casting (loosely based on aluminum) and on 6061/T6 ive never had one back out or loosen. ever.
7075 ive never had to use a insert, just anti seize the threads on a SS screw to prevent corrosion forming…
@GOBLIN you know there is always a market for cheap parts/gear…many of us start with that stuff. But at some point if your serious about your sport you shell out the $$ for the quality gear you should have got in the first place.
Of course I am always happy when it is both cheap and good!
Yea, $100 is a nice aim… but how much have we all already put into these guns? I’ve always have viewed as mounts an area not to skimp on.
If we were talking $125 for a stronger mount, I’m down. $150ish is where I start to look harder at it… but if I can put it up against my LaRue mounts, I’d likely go for it.
Maybe if Kel Tec makes a gen 3, they can make it fold sideways instead fixing all the optics issues. hehe…
but as for this MCARBO rig here… instead of using that hinge as the locking part, would it be any better to just have a small plate/piece with a latch on the right-hand side (opposite of the hinge plate)? Not sure if its even a problem with stability or shaking or wear on the current design but, having it swing down and latch to the other side would possibly add strength and rigidity… if thats even a concern.