M*CARBO Brotherhood

De-Cali My Sub2K

Okay brothers, it is getting tot he time when I need to look at de-Califying my Sub 2K, or simple terms remove the damn bullet button. Here is my main problem, the shop I bought mine through ensured it wasn’t going to come out easily…they Red Locktited it. So it goes without saying, this is going to be tough to do it without wanting to grab a propane torch to loosen it up. I have a soldering iron, I am hoping will be enough to heat up the screw and nut tot he point of being able to loosen them up without damaging the plastic.

If that doesn’t appear to work, the next option is to drill it out progressively with a set of faithful cobolt bits I have till I can drill out the screw to a point wear it will break or release from the nut.

If those don’t work, any suggestions I haven’t thought of for breaking the Mighty Red?

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Congrats on your pending escape. I’m very serious when I suggest you find a buyer with more time on their sentence. Leave it and the red loctite in Cali. Order you a new M Series from M*Carbo.

Plastic and heat are not friendly. So loctiting something surrounded by plastic was a questionable solution when they did it. Bought tghe time you get stuff hot enough to defeatbthe red, I suspect the plastic will be compromised.

Also … grip halves are cheap if you are attached to your Cali Sub2k.

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@Squidder_K depends on the red they used , if its med strength, its easy enough. just gotta be fast.
if its 271 High strength, you will have to glow the nut which will kill the plastic.
do you have a picture of said bullet button?

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I’m with @Dred on this one. I feel ya, but just get rid of that Kali POS and get you a most righteous M Series! Doesn’t it have a grip fin (:face_vomiting:) on it??

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I am out of Kali now, so selling it it is not what I wanted to do.

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I bought it before it needed a fin, and never went the fin way. I just didn’t go the range with it to worry about it.

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@Squidder_K kevin is your bullet button installed on your mag release?

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@Goblin, yes it is . It using one of the screws in the pistol grip to hold in place. I tried to take out once with allen and socket, that did not happen.

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if the sub is stock from Keltec, should be 10.9mm alloy screws I would recommend drilling the bolt heads, first one side , then the other as necessary. get the correct size, drill bit, carbide, in at least 2 steps, and drill center till the head pops. I have before drilled with a bit, just smaller than the allen socket corners, in about 3/16 of a inch, then insert the allen wrench and with one on either side, snap the head off the thinned bolt. usually works and you dont risk side drill.
alloy transfers heat quicker than carbon steel. so you could heat a Allen wrench stick it in the hole and let it transfer and soften the locktite. But i dont recommend that method with a poly receiver.
If itas already been converted to carbon steel Mcarbo Bolt set, (Larger screw section.)
drill the same way as the alloys, it will require more force to snap it, but the CS heads will take it and wont strip the socket near as easily carbon steel, use 2 allen plug sockets and 2 ratchets, gives you more grip/leverage.
JM2C

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I have upgraded all the screws to MCARBO’s except the one holding the damn bullet button in place, that is stock.

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@Squidder_K @GOBLIN
Have you opened the grip which involves removing all the screws and exposing them to never land but it’s not too hard to put back together. Email or call Keltek for their input.
And you can upgrade your trigger while you are in there.
Congrats on your escape, I hope you were able to save a few others.

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@Squidder_K excellent, the stock screw should drill easily with a less expensive split tip, or ti-coat hardware store bit

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That is what I am hoping for.

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Okay no pics right now but I can tell you the removal was a success.

  1. Safe weapon
  2. disassemble the Sub 2K down to where the grip halves are apart.
  3. Remove the internals (you could try to do it with it in, but you and I both know, the moment your not looking a spring is shooting off to never-never land not to be found for months or years later).
  4. I used an old 1x6 that a hole in the middle of it and laid a shop cloth over it, I then placed the left grip half on it so I had clear access to the aluminum sleeve backside.
  5. Using your drill bit kit select the a tightest fitting drill bit that will go into the sleeve, for me that was a 5/64’ths.
  6. At a slow speed work the bit in with constant moderate pressure at a slow speed setting (for my Ryobi the drill is set on the "1"setting). Checking the work every 15-30 seconds, it took roughly 2 minutes to get it to a point where the bit broke off into the 1x6. Mission accomplished.
  7. Will post pics later, but need to put in my new parts. Suffice to say it was much easier that I thought it would be. Fear not Sub 2k POK’s (Prisoners of Kalifornia) there is hope out there!
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Excellent! Free at last!!:+1:

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So here is the removal, strip the rifle down, (I apologize, the correct drill bit was a 1/8th inch and not a 5/64’s) . I made the pictures post removal, but I think you can understand the process.
Safe and strip the weapon down to where you have access to the hand grip sides.
Using a 1/8th drill bit, I drilled into the back side of the screw that was in red Loctite. This basically chewed away the thread to the point where it was released/broke off. If I didn’t have replacement parts, I may be able to tap the aluminum piece to be reused if I had nothing else, but I would prefer not to if I can avoid it. I have MCARBO replacement screws and stands so this won’t be an issue. Time to drill it out maybe 2 minutes at a slow speed to avoid creating excessive heat around plastic parts.

sub2k_grip_finnished sub2k_grip2_1_8thbit sub2k-grip1

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