Wondering what the net effect of this is with regard to trigger pull? Had a near catastrophe trying to tap out pin for trigger assembly, tried from one side and pin didn’t move. Tried from other side and pin started coming out, but punch failed and broke. Could not drive pin out with what was left of punch, so reset pin, which is now flared on both ends. It will need to be drilled out if I ever aspire to change return spring. All other springs and tempered pin successfully replaced. Trigger feels lighter and slide action is certainly lighter.
usually, the pins are flared on both sides, one just a lil less than the other. drive thru with the less flared side.if you have 1 flared side out away from the body far enough, grind the flare off and sand the burr, punch it back thru the other way. sounds like your pin is bent or worn.
its damaged in any case, so you should replace it now rather than later.
Trigger functions fine with pin back in place and it did not appear bent at all, I suspect the punches I bought are less than adequate quality. The gun has only had a few hundred rounds through it, so wear isn’t likely. I still am curious about the reduction in trigger pull with everything but the trigger return spring replaced.
Ordered a replacement pin and punch, might as well do it right.
that’s right. then that question wont be in the back of your mind,the next time the gun misses a beat, “that pin break?” I used to by punches from the hardware store or lowes, they would always chip/bend/or break. finally bought a of TECTON straight punches and wheeler roll pin punches. that was 10 years ago. never had a issue since, not even with the smaller sizes. TECTON is about 40$ for a 18 piece set, WHEELER about 20$ for a 9 piece rollpin set.
what works real well on those flared pins, is a set of harbor freight transfer punches. the actual cone center the punch and keeps it in place, and the straight shoulder gives a even push. they about 20$ as well