M*CARBO Brotherhood

Cleaning/Oiling A Marlin M60

I will have types of questions so bear with me. I am new to guns but do want to do whats right and take care of what I have. I just got in my two recoil springs for my marling m60, as the one in there is bent kinda S shaped half way down. I have watched mcarbo vid on the trigger spring kit, I noticed he didn’t oil anything just added grease to (bear with me) the sear? the part that catches the hammer and the hammer post. What I want to know is what do I need to oil in the marling model 60? I have read don’t oil anything in it as it just adds to crud that builds up.

But my line of thinking and has been on the years metal on metal contact creates uneeded wear it needs oil to reduce wear and friction. My main concern on the bolt, I can see where its been rubbing in the receiver nd wonder if it will eventually rub through. Do I need to lube the bolt? I know mine needs a good scubbing it has some staining and very slight what looks like rust.

I have 4 gun forums I have been reading on, and in one they said can use carb cleaner to clean the parts with, just be careful of plastic parts, can also use brake cleaner. That just seems like a to harsh a cleaner to use on parts in a gun and is made for that cleaning carbs.

I have a gun cleaning kit, but was my inlaws and looks old, it is a hoppes kit, does have bore cleaner and lube. I just want to do this right and do it right everytime I clean it. I want it last, and be reliable.

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I’ve got a warning and good news. Warning … this is a rabbit hole. Good news … there are many ways to accomplish the quoted goal.

Disclosure: my first gun was a Glenfield 25. If it has been cleaned in the 45 years I’ve owned it, I don’t recall. It is a bolt gun, but it has never failed. In the 80s, I recall teaching friends to shoot using this rifle and making the assertion that firearms were self cleaning. I’ve learned different, but I still can’t seem to get 'round to cleaning the 25.

If you search this topic at a place like rifire central, you will be presented with a bunch of reasons cleaning your 22lr is not always good for its performance. At the same place you’ll see pics of firearms so spotless you’ll wonder if their owners are using commercial autoclaves.

Good news is that this isn’t politics. Most of the perspectives have actual merit and can satisfy the quoted goal. If you add in “accuracy” it gets a little dicier and you are going to have to pick whatever approach makes the warm and fuzzies for you.


When I first got this gun, I watched several vids on how to take it apart. So I got that part, I have cleaned it once already since it had alot of crud in it. Then come the reading, I think it was the resources from mcarbo sight that said, the marlin semis don’t need oil as it just create more crud build up.


@Dred the cleaning is more in the action to get the crud out, just the bit I have fired it, the action is already getting a build up of carbon? Black coating and does not wipe off easy. I do look into the barrel, yes I always, always make sure its clear to see if it looks like it needs to have a patch run down it, if not I skip that step. This is cleaning is just keeping the action and moveing parts clean and running smooth.


LOL … I mostly sit on the sidelines watching folks stress about other folks cleaning habits. In my case, I clean enough that I’m confident my firearms will run.

My 1911s are the cleanest but they don’t even see the full treatment every time I shoot’m.


Just a suggestion, but you could try using a dry lube, like Hornady One-Shot. Has a very high lubricity rating and will not attract residue like a wet lube tends to do. It is also a very effective cleaner.


I will look into that stuff. I have been doing some reading on other forums past couple days, alot on cleaning, most won’t touch the barrel for a year, others will clean the chamber and action and oil it a little, others just shoot till it gives you problems then clean it up. I rather clean it before problems arise.


The 60’s really don’t need OC cleaning…Depending on the 60’s age, the carbon you’re seeing is actually a bit of graphite from the powder. Graphite is a lube. I still have the one I bought as a teenager (a long time ago), and it was never the best of shooters but it did ok. It has stains on the cheap chrome plating, but the plating itself has never detached from the metal. Bore never showed much leading, even after of thousands of rounds. They were meant for negligent kids to use and enjoy.

There are a couple of things to watch on the 60’s. First, if there is anything like a “recoil lug” (which there isn’t), it is the rear of the action inlet in the stock, at the point in which the receiver fits into the stock. If you look at that area, that’s where the main thrust is “sent”. A lot of folks laugh at bedding a 22RF rifle stock, but I laugh back at them shoot sub MOA groups at 75-100 yards with plain Jane Stingers. Having bedded my 60’s stock with Acraglass a long time ago I can tell you that the wood in that area must stay essentially oil free, flat, and the fitment must be absolutely rock solid. I won’t get into the bedding in the front of the action, but the back is real important. So, bottom line, avoid spraying oils in there and then standing the rifle crown up. If anything store it crown down.

Second, if you play around with disassembly too much, you will eventually get carried away torquing the action bolts and the rear tang on the trigger guard will snap completely off with only modest torque. Don’t ask me how I know this… The metal is extremely porous and weak on these 60’s. So, the action must fit tightly in the stock so that not much torque is needed on the action screws. That’s another reason to keep the oil out of the action. If you can pick up a screwdriver/driver/torque wrench for cheap (Hint: ebay) that will keep you out of the danger zone, past maybe 20 in/lbs, and will allow you to study how that torque affects the groups (Read: harmonics). Remember, it’s not a Mauser, Mosin Nagant, or Swede, so stay away from that 35 in/lb domain in the torque.

Good rifle…all of them are clearly investments.

And, the snowflakes are clearing out the Grandpa closets in huge numbers and basically throwing them away. Their Marxism is our gain…


I just bought my third model 60 a few days ago. It’s actually a Glenfield 60. I took it down to give it a quick cleaning. It was surprisingly clean. It didn’t even have near the wear of my other two. Anyway I bent the recoil spring during reassembly. I couldn’t believe I did that. I’ve done this about a dozen times before. I guess I was in too big a hurry and too confident. I have a new one inbound.