Just completed trigger bundle kit. Upon reinstall of bolt assembly I am unable to get bolt to ride forward without having to press hammer down further through ejection port with finger. Any ideas? Function checks all seemed to be fine.
Bolt reinstall always requires the hammer be pushed back to let the bolt ride past. This is the single trick that the magic M*Carbo wooden dowel performs.
If you have the bolt in and you are functional - you’ve succesfully finished.
Thanks for the response. I don’t think I explained the situation clearly. I used the magic stick and set the hammer until it clicked and locked in place. In the video the stick is used to lock the hammer in place and when the bolt rides forward and locks in. I have to add additional downward pressure to the hammer when it’s locked down and rode the bolt forward. The video looks like the bolt rides forward all the way without additional pressure. Unless I add additional downward pressure the bolt will not ride all the way forward and lock. It passes funtion checks. Just not sure if I have an issue or the additional pressure is normal for some subs. Thanks, Mike
My bolt will hang up slightly if I try to push it in. I just hold the rifle vertically and let the bolt drop down firmly under its own weight. It will ride over the cocked back hammer just fine with zero issues during firing or manual cycling. Is yours still pretty new with a low round count? If so, it just might need more breaking in.
No it doesn’t. You only need the dowel to manually cock the hammer the first time after you get it all back together from a full receiver disassembly. I’ve field stripped mine many times for cleaning, which requires removing the bolt, and have never needed to use the dowel on the hammer again. Just don’t pull the trigger with the bolt removed or it WILL be needed again. LOL
No rounds yet. Hopefully tommorow. Just picked it up a couple weeks ago.
Ah, there ya go. Shoot the heck out of it and have fun. It will smooth up. It just needs breaking in. Mine was very tight when I got it. Even knocking out the cross-pin at the back of the tube to field strip it was a PITA. The charging handle didn’t want to come out of the bolt very easily, either, after the recoil spring was removed.
Good to hear. I’ll burn it up tomorrow. Thanks!
It’s just becoming impossible to resinstall check that the hammer is facing the right way. (An issue that’s come up before) you will have confirmation that it is facing the right way by being able to insert the cross bolt safety. In chris’s Video the sub is well broken in and there are some more rounded edges inside the gun
Thank you for the response. Cross bolt safety is in and appears to function correctly. I believe the hammer is installed correctly also. It only takes just a little more pressure on the cocked hammer to get the bolt past it . Without it the bolt will not slide into lock up .Hopefully it just to get broken in.
You’d know it if you had the hammer in backwards. The notch that interfaces with the sear would be on the wrong side completely and the hammer wouldn’t lock back at all.
Mine has the same issue after the pro bundle install, I have about 500 rounds of 9mm and an itchy trigger finger so I’ll probably hit the range this weekend. I guess if I burn through the 500 and the trigger finger is still itchy, I’ll just have to scratch it with my savage 64f 22lr is so much fun for le$$.
Mike, you just found the fun part of re-installation of the bolt!!! Having to depress the hammer to allow the bolt to move forward all the way seems to be the requirement, I know the factory video shows it going forward by dropping it into position but I was never able to get that to work so I took a dowel and made my own hammer depressor, you may need to shape it some to get it to fit because of the extractor.
Interesting. I greased mine up well when it was new and I’ve never had that problem. I just hold the bolt/weight up about halfway out and drop it. Mine seats every time. Now, whether or not the hole for the charging handle is aligned with the slot in the recoil tube after the first “drop” is anyone’s guess. LOL
A long time ago I did a reply to a thread that I can not find any more all about making the "bolt/charging bar easier to operate. but I csn not find it on this site any more. but here goes my reducing the effort that makes the S2K about half as hard.
Remove charging bar and bolt. using FLITZ and a dremal tool or a soft cloth make the "strap"around breach end of bolt shine,
Now if you look at the next picture do the same thing to the other end of the bolt. after that polish both ends of the charging bar. both ends seem to be just a little larger diameter than the centers (to reduce drag).
BEfore inserting the bolt I put a thin coating of Moly bearing grease w/ PTFE on the entire surface of the bolt.
Now comes the most important part. When hammer is cocked there is a surface thet rides along the bottom of the bolt,polish it up! also at the very front of that surface take and put a radius on that edge. do not go over board but I strted by using a jeweler’s file then 120 grit/400grit/800 grit/1000 grit/1500grit/2000grit wrapped around the file then polished it. Notice you can still see mill marks along the flat surface just polish. i now can place charging handle in it’s hole and bump the bolt past the hammer !
Go the thread ‘Poiishing trigger bar hammer etc." that TRIGGERHAPPY’ started and look at the 2nd and 3rd pictures of the hammer. Just below the face that strikes the firing pin is another “flat surface”. The break between the 2 surfaces is the point that rides along the bottom flat surface of the bolt.That interface is what causes the difficulty of reinserting bolt. By putting a radius on that junction of the 2 hammer faces and the radius of the front of the bolt, instead of a sharp angles, the 2 surfaces glide across each other.
put a thin coat of moly/PTFE bearing grease on the bolt and you should be able to get it to reinsert by just a sharp bump of your palm
Other things that will smooth out he action of the whole charging action is to remove the charging tube from the receiver take a 12gauge brush on a rod and aggressively clean the inside then wipe clean with a swab and patches using CLP.
Look at the end of the charging bolt. that is where the spring enters and compresses. the edge has a beveled surface. The spring rides along that edge and grinds every time a winding of the spring wire passes it make a rough sound. I took a Dremel tool with burr and made that bevel into more of a radius then went through the polishing protocal described above. Notice the “strap” that is definded by the band on the rear end of the main “front bolt” where the two pieces go together in this picture.
as everyone knows, the smoother the run of the gun the more accurate the results.
The resistance is created at the point he bolt contacts the hammer face. See the radius created on the bolt bottom to help push hammer down.
see my reply below. I have been inside my gun TOO MANY tomes in the past few days working on getting the trigger to FLY. my efforts now have it so the bolt can be reset just by bumping with web between my thumb and index finger
I have all the steps completed, but I can not get the bolt to move. Safety on. Any ideas?
Middle of the movie? What are you doing? Where is the bolt? What is blocking it?
Yep. Sorry. Stock is off. I removed spring and stock handle. Inserted Recoilless handle and spring. Bolt is pulled back and will not move forward.
Got it! Thanks Dred. I am new to this and was getting impatient. Just needed a flash light and to look at ‘what is blocking it’.