M*CARBO Brotherhood

Aluminum Trigger Guard

Hello Everyone…I’m still getting used to this forum so please forgive me if my search was weak and this has already been discussed.

Is the MCARBO Aluminium Trigger Guard smaller in the trigger area than the stock plastic one?

I saw that it will only work with the MCARBO trigger and read that the MCARBO trigger is a little smaller than the OEM. I ask because any loss of room and I won’t be able to get the trigger finger of my winter work gloves in there.

Also, has anyone had any wear on the plastic of the forend side from locking up against aluminium? My sub 2000 is opened and closed at least 5 times a day and I’m wondering if that would be something to worry about in my situation?

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While I didn’t actually measure things, the MCARBO trigger guard didn’t make any difference (to me) over the stock Kel-Tec polymer trigger guard. What I did notice is was a much higher quality part with zero slop/flex and excellent machining and finish. It made the front end lock-up much more secure. Besides, if you’re considering the MCARBO trigger guard, go ahead and put their trigger of your choice in, too, since you have to take it all apart anyway for the guard. :+1:

And, why are you folding/unfolding your S2K five+ times a day? I get it when that feature is a fun and new novelty, but stop doing it so much. Anything like that of any quality will wear out with such needless activity.

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Haven’t measured either, but have shot my S2K with gloves. You state “work” gloves just how heavy duty are they? The positive feel of the M*Carbo trigger guard and trigger are a world away from the stretchy OEM guard and trigger.

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@coydog: All the M*Carbo products are serious upgrades from OEM. (dreadful partisanship there). I would recommend the Flat trigger vs the curved. This would I believe, give you more room as well as a mechanical advantage.

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@coydog: Gonna have to refer you to @Wedge, @GOBLIN and others on this forum for how well the S2K would withstand lots of openings and closings. There are others on the forum as well who are more experienced with the S2K than I.

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@coydog anyways…back on topic.

I am not a huge fan of the aluminum trigger guard. Seems more difficult to operate to me.

Just a little to slick, to smooth, needs some tabs or serrations in my opinion.

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@coydog cleaned up for you. Continue please.

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@coydog Drug my plastic trigger guard out of my parts bag and laid it up against the aluminum and they are the same size as far as the trigger area. This and the metal trigger of your choice and your good to go.

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@Don68 @coydog Ok, I dug out my plastic trigger guard and laid it right on top of aluminum trigger guard and the plastic guard gives you a little more finger room as you can see and it is also a little narrower. And weather it’s plastic against plastic or plastic against aluminum I put a little Super Lube w/PTFE in that contact area.20181219_161510 20181219_161631

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@Johnksg

The biggest difference I notice in the aluminum trigger guard is the lack of flex that the stock plastic guard does have when you operate it. I think there is enough room on the sides of the aluminum trigger guard to add maybe small strips of grip tape to give you a better grip when opening.

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I like the aluminum trigger guard. It locks the barrel much tighter/better.

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well, not sure we answered @coydog question. How well the plastic lock lug survives repeated openings & closings over an extended period. No way to seriously tell until plastic fails to lock or open. @dave67 is right smear on ptfe grease and check locking lug often for wear.

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That’s why I stopped folding mine regularly. Now, I only fold it to clean it.

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yep, I hear ya!! Mine stays folded until time to practice. Rest of the time it resides in its’ bag riding in my truck. Problem with S2K is there is no long term empirical evidence on reliability regarding plastic parts. As @Johnksg says: “Not proven yet”.

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@russ The trigger guard (plastic or aluminum) and the forward handguard have a large locking surface area, I find it hard to believe that those two surfaces would wear enough to cause an issue. A little Super Lube w/PTFE on the two contact surfaces really smooth it out. I think if anything were to wear out it would be the much smaller latch on top of the butt stock where it makes contact with the front of the handguard, again a tiny bit Super Lube w/PTFE on that as well. Can anyone with an older Sub-2000 look at these contact points and tell us what they see?

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I agree! The larger locking surfaces would spread wear over larger area.

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The Sub2000 Gen 1 has been around for almost 20 years, so that’s a pretty good span. And, the DuPont Zytel polymer on the Gen 2 is better/stronger since they upped the fiberglass fill content from something like 17% to 33%, which is the same as Glock.

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I have a gen1 still has the plastic while you do feel it flex a little in operation I do not see any wearing due to contact with the handgaurd. I have that KT aluminum handgaurd. It is butter smooth hope this helps

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@coydog Kel-Tec would replace the plastic hinge if it should wear down under warranty. You might have to send it back to the mothership though. Like @dave67 says use a little lube on the contact surfaces.

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And, make sure to fully clean the area first. Check/replace the lube regularly, too. The last thing you want is for it to pick up dirt and grit, which always happens, and turn that grease into a grinding compound.

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