About To Buy A New Gun Safe


I am looking to buy a new gun safe. I am considering the Steelwater Heavy duty model. What do you pros think?


Technically most big store “safes” aren’t safes at all. A UL certification level requires that big box retailers selling “safes” meet a minimum standard to be considered a “residential security container.” That bare minimum only requires the “safe” to be resistant to one attacker with using common hand tools for up to 5 min. They woo you in with a big heavy door but the sides (the weak attack points) are made of thin metal and sheet rock. Not many are fire rated either. True safes start at a level 2 or B rating and must be able to withstand attack from multiple people using various tools for up to 10 min. A “safe” is also a big giant neon sign attracting the bad guy to bee line straight to it. I recommend using common overlooked places to store your goods such as a hope chest or job box thrown in the corner with household good boxes and stuff. No bad guy is gonna rummage through the spare room full of junk to look for a job box.


This is the safe I’m considering.

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which ever one you end up with, make sure you bolt it down solid. dont depend on its weight to keep thieves from moving it. a Buddy of mine thought that, since it was heavy he didnt have to bolt his down. Thieves rocked it over, and with a cheap angle grinder, nicked the least protected spot (the back) right off the unit. all a safe does, it attempt to make it take longer and be more difficult to steal, make the thieves move on to a easier score. the first safe I bought is a Cannon. the second, I bought a door and built my own out of 1/4 diamond deck. Both are bolted to the wall and slab.


I have a Lincoln Liberty 35 and like it very much. Whatever you decide to get though, buy the next bigger size or even bigger. They fill up fast :laughing:


It’s because the things breed in the dark! Those ARs are really bad about it! But yeah, get as big as you can afford. We’re currently planning our second safe.

Pay attention to the fine print on the fire-proof safes, if you’re going that route, and either get one you know you can move into the house/garage your self or with helpers, or make certain the shop you get your safe from has installers, or has someone they can call.


Firearms are definitely addictive, as I am finding out. I am also learning that safes can be overrated. Not only does one have to worry about theft but also fire. I have been living in a basement apartment for almost 12 years now. I know that nothing is FOREVER and change is imminent. I have moisture issues that require desiccant treatment with my safe. All these challenges are not good for guns. That being said, examine your needs thoroughly. Consider all of your options and use multiple solutions before laying out your money. After all, it could make the difference of buying MORE firearms??? Big smiles!

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Liberty- I own (2) and am very happy with both. Get one with the built in dehumid wands.

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You can also get those wands separately, so you won’t be limited to safes that have them built in. Most safes have a hole in them for passing power cords through for lights and such, so it shouldn’t be a big deal with the routing.

We got one of the smaller-sized safes that was fire-rated. At the time, it was all the capacity we needed. We’re now having to get creative to pack all the weapons up in the safe and still have the door close! We’re shopping for another safe, but will probably opt for another one of the same size, since we can easily-fit it next to the other one, and, most-importantly, my wife and I can move it on our own. We’ve considered larger ones, but usually look at each other and say, almost at the same time, ‘how will we get it in the house, and where will we put it?’

Oh, and when they’re describing how many weapons will fit the safe, they’re talking about single-shot .22s! There’s little extra space for silly ancillary things like optics and magazines.

Gene Beaird,
Pearland, Texas


@GOBLIN @FrankG if possible bolt it down in an alcove which makes it a lot more difficult for someone to cut into it


wherever you bolt it, use min 6 each 3/8S grade 8 bolts with washers. then tack the bolt heads to the inside of the box, and then tack the outside nut to thread then nut to body.
lid is the most pried open part.

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@GOBLIN Hey man. I tried your suggestion, but the tacks keep bending! :grin:



@JoeFridaySays need bigger hammer :smiling_imp: 50 lb’dr should bout do it…


@Goblin A smarter user might also help! :grinning:


@JoeFridaySays na,couldnt be, you shoulda used the green tacks, blue just bend to easy…


@Goblin Then it oughta say that on the package! I smell a class action lawsuit.


@GOBLIN Oh damn, now I have to swap all of mine out…I used blue ones to secure my cabinet to the wall as well.


@JoeFridaySays I can see 2 half a dozen Keltec’s with ACOG’s in your future… dang it they dont have a emoj reading a crystal ball…

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blue only works if the wall is painted puice

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@Goblin We’ve all seen more foolish class actions for sure. :grinning: But I think I’ll pass on this one.

Gotta get to work, but remember we don’t all have your expertise so you have to be particular about things like the tack color so you don’t mislead us dumba$$es too badly. :smiling_imp: