M*CARBO Brotherhood

3D Printed Butt Pad


#1

Hey all new to the forum and the Sub 2k.
I am working on a 3d Printed Butt Pad for my 9mm Gen 2. Only “solid” way I can see to attach it is to drill and tap for example 3mm hex screws. Would you drill and tap the stock?

TPU would not offer much recoil absorption what I am after is a but better hold on the shoulder. As is now it adds about 10MM / .4 inches of length but could be changed to be thicker if needed.

Example of the TinkerCad Drawing


Not sure it will print yet printing with TPU with supports for the raised areas off the print bed is not simple. Soon as it finishes I’ll update this thread.

Version with profile for shoulder is printing now. (1:20PM Mountain)


#2

It was only a matter of time before someone did this with a 3D printer!

I would have no problems whatsoever drilling holes in the stock. I think this would be a viable product that can be marketed. :grin::+1:


#3

@solarix

Yes, in a heartbeat. If you fix the shoulder to stock interface, you won’t need “padding.” I can tell you that the Minimalist stock I installed on mine makes it feel like 9mm where the factory stock was a shock multiplier that I was launching 308s.

IMO the weakness of the ATI pad is that it simply extended an inadequate stock profile.


#4

I learned the hard fast way on shoulder interface… thinking oh its only 9mm, I left the stock short as it came from the factory for about 100 rounds, the bruise/pressure cut on my cheek is still there after 5 days. Lengthened and it is much better but still the stock just does not feel nearly as “right” as my AR does.

While v1 prints (4-5 hours per print) already v2 is 17mm on the ends and 13mm in the center to form an upper/lower shoulder curve of sorts. like a “normal” shape of a stock. I think I can get it down to 8mm thick in the center and 12mm on the ends which adds about 1 buffer pin hole length which I run mine as long as I can get it and want just a bit more.
Profiled-1
No hole for the barrel to fold into since I use the longest pin it is not needed. Maybe get this one printed today as well.


#5

Final is printing refined the holes so they are located in full strength areas on the stock and changed to ribs instead of diamond pattern, will install today. Also printed a recoil buffer for testing 100% TPU pretty solid stuff probably last 250 rounds maybe less, hitting it with a hammer on an anvil yeilds a substantial reduction in impact…Finished-1

If anyone that does 3d printing is interested in trying this out let me know. It takes roughly 5 hours to print the butt pad at 20mm per second. No way to make money at that time frame IMO. I spent about 8 hours drawing and printing 4 revisions to get to this point.


#6

@solarix, Maybe not economical 3d printing, but if you contacted a company that could use your 3d printed butt pad to make a mold from and then mold hard rubber butt pads with threaded brass inserts for attaching to the stock butt you could have a very popular item. Only downside would be if people would want to drill holes in their stock to attach. Is it possible to alter the design and 3d print some type of clips to attach it to the stock pad?


#7

A stock is $25 from Kel-Tec, I have no issue drilling mine cleanly and tapping it for 3mm hex bolts, not “wood screws” if the threads in the plastic prove to not hold then I will cross drill the plate just forward and put lock nuts on the back side. Done carefully I venture it would be hard to tell the holes were not factory… Not sure I could get one from Kel-Tec no experience with their customer service…

As far as clips go, 3d printed clips would not satisfy me. I want this to be solid, no falling off, no shifting positions, an integral part…


#8

@solarix,
Let us know how it works out after some extensive testing. I think you may be onto something. Just curious, what kind of 3d printer are you using? I have been toying around with buying one for my business to manufacture concept prototypes. I manufacture parts for the oil and gas industry as well as power generation equipment and custom tooling. A lot of the work i do is in exotic high temp alloys and R&D is VERY expensive using actual materials. Computer generation/simulation is helpful, but to put an actual model in the customers hands really opens eyes explaining/demonstrating a concept.


#9

This is exactly the kind of thread I think @ChrisNelson started the forum for. This is a great design, a very marketable idea and a perfect product for MCARBO to manufacture and sell. You should probably email Chris directly.

This piece need to get done👍


#10

This idea actually solves a lot of buttstock questions, because a variably sized butt pad, mainly to adjust LOP, is what everyone wants. And more recoil reduction. It could be thick enough maybe to even accept a spare magazine which everyone also wants. This is big!


#11

@Texprep
I have a Monoprice Maker Select 3d v2 I use for TPU/PETG and ABS and a Monoprice Ultimate I use mainly for PLA. Many different printers out there, many of them for all intents and purposes the same printer different colors then re-branded. The Monoprice Maker Select 3d v2 plus a Flexion HT extruder and some fiddling works quite well for soft materials, just not fast not sure there is anything that can push rubber through a .4mm hole fast :slight_smile:

If you have $$ a budget $$ there are better printers out there but again really research it before spending the money. Both my printers are re branded Wanhao printers. The Ultimate is a Duplicator 6, the Monoprice Maker Select 3d v2 is a Wanhao Duplicator i3. All affordable for the common guy are Chinese clones in reality.


#12

I couldnt agree more. I think if a mold could be made Chris could bring these to market fairly quickly made from a molded plastic or rubber. Im sure he knows theres a market for it. Probably just depends on how many irons he has in the fire already. He is running a successful company and if you stretch yourself too thin trying to do everything ASAP, problems can arise and get out of control. Something i learned the hard way about 20 years ago with my business. I really do think @solarix needs to share this idea with @ChrisNelson.


#13

I messaged @ChrisNelson. My drawing is very crude, not done in an official CAD software so what I have is what I would call my DIY version… If this works well for me I’ll likely release the design to the world on Thingiverse.com as opensource unless Chris takes this as a project and wants this drawing which given someone with experience with a decent CAD program made for modeling smooth parts not block type drawings for simple 3d printing could blow away what I have drawn up in less than an hour. All I want is something that works and every other commercial product I have seen for the S2k has been not what I had in mind…


#14

I like this option, not that it needs a butt pad for recoil but it does need one for comfort even if there was no recoil. I wrapped mine in paracord to get the comfort i desired, but I would have been interested in this option if it’s soft enough. :wink:


#15

It is not soft, it is pliable but not soft. Hard to describe what TPU is. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoplastic_polyurethane

More of a pliable plastic. As far as softening the recoil of a 9mm round on the S2K it virtually won’t but it will be softer than glass filled nylon…

My progress just got set back by 5 hours I thought I would try to anneal the printed one I had, well it melts very easily just over 400F, no soft state just poof it turned into a puddle :). Printing again this time no after process it is what it is…


#16

Great idea. I’ve been playing around with a few ideas myself.


#17

Very nicely done Brother.


#18

Good to see someone else trying this…

Attachment to the existing is the catch I have. I drilled and tapped. Got 1 hole(bottom one)

nailed perfectly center line, not so much the other one. No Huge deal but not perfect. I ordered a new stock and the brass heavy weight bolt. may never need the stock or ever get it who knows.


#19

Just curious, did you consider putting L shaped “fingers” to grip the buttstock? Considering the material you’re using it should be pliable enough to slip on and off while still having enough hold on the original buttstock itself. Love your design.


#20

I am just not sold on clip-on stuff when it comes to my guns… although now that I look at it, there is the little stuby picatinny rail on the bottom may be able to adapt something to that. I want this to not come off. The other offerings for the S2k I have seen various zip ties and stuff on them because they fall off, not into that type of attachment. I did print a rail that slid on the stock from bottom to top that would “work” but I could knock it off with a good bump so that idea went away. Found that slide on piece on thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2661499 definitely not that at least for me.

My threaded holes with 15mm long screws in them feel plenty strong since there is no force pulling on the but pad I think it will work but nailing the center line with a drill bit for the common guy would be difficult. I used the drill press and obviously something was not setup right, totally my mistake but it is cosmetic and I doubt the 9mm has enough recoil to cause it to crack, if so well thats what the part on order is for.