M*CARBO Brotherhood

10/22 Bolt Issue

I have two 10/22’s.

One from 1985 and a takedown from 2016.
The 85 carbine version is very smooth and quiet when manually cycling the charging handle. No issues.

The 2016 takedown (~2,500 rds.) has a very rough/scratchy feel when manually cycling…almost like it’s touching the recoil spring. I’m wondering if it’s out of spec from the factory? :rage:

Going to look closer tomorrow and might do a polishing.

Anyone had to do the polishing? And did it help?

All ideas appreciated.

I’m not ready to go for a new bolt or a KIDD yet…but tempted for $110.00.


Ive mentioned it before but i am a firm believer in polishing firearm internals speacially moving parts. It allways makes for smoother operation. The great thing with the 10/22’s is there so simple to work on and the aftermarket parts are allmost unlimited. Theres several semi cheap upgrades for them that makes a world of difference.


The 1985 version has never been polished and it’s smooth as butter.

Took a few pics of the 2016 version that show the four flats on top of the bolt are worn uneven and the receiver has uneven wear marks also. :face_with_monocle:


They just dont put in the quality control like they use to. That bolt on your newer 10/22 looks very rough and unfinished lookin. I havent owned a newer 10/22 everyone i ever had has been older 80’s models and like you say about your older one never any problems. Ive seen some other post on here in past couple years saying that the new 10/22 rifles are junk compared to older models because of the fit and finish. Id still try polishing the spit out of everything and see if it makes it smoother. But that bolt damn sure looks rough.


I have the same feeling on my takedown, and concur with Dave, its on the to-do list for a right good polishing.


Agreed. Looking at it, it is hard to reconcile Ruger’s reputation for top tier casting.


Did the polishing today.

1 sheet 600 grit wet/dry
1 sheet 1500 grit wet/dry
Flitz polish

Used a glass panel for a flat surface.

Replaced the OEM extractor and spring with a Volquartzen Exact Edge Extractor. The OEM extractor was worn down.

Cycling is very smooth now…but…:scream::face_with_monocle:

The 86 version has an 18” barrel…not a takedown.

The 2016 model is a takedown with 16.40” barrel.
The vibration and sound harmonics are not the same as the fixed barrel model…and never going to be quieter…due to the locking takedown components. IMHO :face_with_monocle:

Glad I did the polishing. Only took about 1-2 hrs. for the job. :grin:


It appears the takedown models may be the only ones with the raised 4 bumps on top of the bolt. Don’t know why that is but I imagine it has something to do with casting imperfections and tolerances of these newer Rugers…:rage:

If you dry cycle a regular non takedown 10/22… then a takedown model, the noise that comes out of the takedown lockup mechanism is LOUD! :rage: It blocks the harmonics from the barrel half.
I had no idea until I dry cycled the two side by side. :face_with_monocle:

I also wonder if I should move the binary trigger over to the 18” barrel model of that is not a takedown? No red dot on that one…but I could add one.

Just ordered replacement firing pins from KIDD. I’m sure the Ruger firing pin is worn like the extractor was.

KIDD parts are less expensive verses Volquartzen…same quality…and shipping is just $3! :grin::boom::boom::boom:

~2,500 rds:


Bolt is finished and repolished, added:
Volquartzen extractor and new spring
KIDD firing pin and new spring

The Ruger firing pin was just as worn as the extractor…but still worked.
~2,500 rds.

For $110 the KIDD complete bolt sure looks like a good deal to me (when it’s not backorderd) :face_with_monocle::



Test fired 30 rds. yesterday in semi and binary mode. Not a single issue. :sunglasses:

However…I did notice most of the ejected cases used to land ~8’ away at 1 o’clock…now they land mostly 8’ away at 3 o’clock. :man_shrugging::face_with_monocle: